If I forget thee......

like having teeth pulled

2011-11-02T21:06:00.002+02:00

In the past few months, I've noticed stalls set up seemingly randomly around Jerusalem signing people up for the Rav-Kav. I've always been in a rush when passing them by and so happily passed them by. As an irregular bus rider (my usual commute is by bike), I haven't noticed any major advertising campaign regarding why I should take any notice - my cartisia (paper ticket allowing for 10 bus journeys) serves me just fine thank you very much.

On November 1st however, Jerusalem stopped using cartisiot and Choshi Chodshi (monthly passes allowing unlimited travel for a set fee) and suddenly I was forced out of my stupor - along with many thousands of other Jerusalemites.

Other than cash the Rav Kav is now the only way to travel on Jerusalem buses and of course - our wonderful new light rail (which I used for the first time the other day). Paying cash means a more expensive ticket so I figured I'd have to go along and get the new device - the omens appeared good yesterday however as I read that demand from latecomers was causing tremendous crowds and therefore they were opening new stations to distribute them including one near my office. My initial reconnaissance however showed that the new stations were pretty crowded too.

This morning therefore, having checked the opening time (9:00) and what to bring (ID card or drivers license + form printed off from the website), saw me arriving at the correct spot on Ben Yehuda with a couple of minutes to spare before opening to find - nothing - no sign, no booth, nada - should I have expected anything other than a delay in anything connected to the light rail?

At 9:10 a team started dragging out the equipment, setting up a shelter, stands etc. By this time an initial crowd had gathered and began to engage in the Israeli tradition of asking "who's last? okay I'm after you" - complicated by the fact that there were two stands from two directions it became clear that the potential for nastiness was pretty high. "Do you guys have numbers?" I asked a staff member hopefully and got "choched" in reply.

By 9:23 they were able to announce that they'd be ready to begin work in 20 minutes once they had the computers set up - at which point I abandoned the enterprise, returned to my office and shot off notes of complaint to Egged and City Pass.

I decided to bite the bullet and returned later in the day. I found a line of about 35 people including Olim from France, Young Judea kids from the US and veteran Israelis. Moving forward at a snail's pace, it became clear that the staff members were not of the highest calibre nor work ethic. Despite the nature of the Jerusalem public neither spoke English or French (and were barely intelligible in Hebrew other than one consistently informing the crowd that the other was "meshuga". Tempers frayed as they ran out of forms at 2:30 (they were supposed to be there until 5:00) and they started to tell anyone that they could go to Kanyon Malcha or the Central Bus Station.

As I got to the front of my line one employee got up and, knuckles dragging, headed off for a smoke - fortunately his colleague had the good sense to relate to the two lines as one and finally, after an hour and a half waiting, I departed with my new card - lousy photo and all.

Having grown up in the UK, I'm no stranger to inefficient systems of public transportation and waiting patiently on line is second nature to me. The beginning of the light rail project has faded from my memory - it's certainly at least 6 years ago but I'm thinking more like 8 or 9 years of terror for Jerusalem commuters and small business owners? Given that lead time, you'd be foregiven for thinking that someone might have come up with a more efficient way of making sure that commuters were aware of the upcoming change - but given the way in which the project has unfolded maybe I'm stupid to expect anything different?

Rainy Shabbat

2009-10-31T20:37:00.002+02:00

Part of the pleasure of being home is that my baby bro can come for Shabbat with his family. We were joined Friday night by my old friend the Gooner and one of my soldier boys; Shabbat lunch by a young family and some sem girls.

Both meals were wonderful with lots of good company and food. Particularly special was the heavy rain fall over Jerusalem immediately prior to Shabbat which is so badly needed and the Sedra (Torah Reading) being one of the most Aliyah centred of all which I always enjoy.

We even had the pleasure of trying out a new (for us) minyan this morning, just down the road which, whilst lacking something in comparison to our usual haunt, is certainly a lot more convenient.

Shavua Tov,

Gilly

(Mainly) so far so good

2009-09-02T05:49:00.002+03:00

A long overdue post. It's 5:50 am and the sun is rising over Yerushalayim; I've been up for a while - I'm wired.

Home now for 2 weeks and couldn't be happier. After an amazing flight and arrival ceremony we spent our first ten days with my parents' in law who have been amazing. Free babysitting allowed us to get on and do stuff - really and truly, I take my hat off to all the Olim who manage somehow without a mother-in-law.

The apartment is great - big with lots of storage, outdoor space and spare rooms for guests. All our stuff made it across from the old apartment without incident; most of our stuff has made it's way from storage in the attic at my in-laws safely (1 wine glass and 1 tea cup broken in transit). The shipment from the US arrives in a few hours so we'll have plates to eat off and the monkey will have a proper bed at last.

We have a car - nothing fancy - a 2007 Hyundai Elantra. Boring but with a decent sized boot and enough leg room for all.

I finally treated myself to a new grill and cooked dinner last night - our oven may be redundant!

The monkey had his first day at Gan yesterday and came through with flying colours. Today I'm taking him along, will spend the first 1 1/2 hours with him and then leave him with that Gananot and other kids. Mrs G says that a pretty girl kept hitting him yesterday which means she's interested......

Back to my Monday night football game after 3 years of absence. Despite signs of rust I scored a couple and was better than I thought I'd be - could I be the midfielder that Rafa needs to replace Alonso?

The only blots on the landscape have been a series of visits to various Doctors over the last 2 days; Monday night Mrs G. took off her fingernail and a slice of finger when opening the blinds; we spent 4 hours in Terem and Miyun and she's wandering around with a bandage and instructions not to do any washing up; yesterday the monkey managed to dislocate his elbow but is now back to his normal boisterous self. Visits to Terem (10 minute walk), ER, hand specialist, Pediatrician (literally downstairs from our flat) and Orthopedic specialist (10 minute walk) - where necessary appointments were made no more than an hour later and with a total cost (including prescriptions) of no more than NIS 150 and a tremendous level of care. I love socialised medicine.

Gilly

Packing up

2009-07-24T21:14:00.002+03:00

With less than a month to go before we get home, we've been having a busy couple of weeks. We sold our old apartment which was way to small and would have been hazardous for the Monkey due to it being on multiple levels. We've also rented an apartment close by - significantly bigger with lots of space for guests and big balconies to make up for the loss of the garden. We've signed up the Monkey to start at a Gan on September 1st.

With so much good stuff going on, I was really worried about today - the shippers coming in to pack up all of our stuff which has potential to be a stressful activity. Last night found Mrs G and I frantically getting things in order so that things would go smoothly and we were just finishing off the final details this morning when the shippers showed up - bang on time.

After showing them what needed to be packed up they set to work and in double quick time the apartment was filled with large boxes as our stuff began to be packed away. We hit a slight glitch when the freight elevator was not available for use at the agreed upon time but shortly afterwards the guys were schlepping stuff down to the truck and departing for the port with generous tips for their hard work.

The shipment should arrive shortly after we do - hopefully all in one piece. If the remainder of our move is anywhere near as smooth I'll be a seriously happy camper.

Counting down the days - 26 more to go!

Shabbat shalom

sending off

2009-07-10T05:23:00.003+03:00

I spent 3 days in the Big Apple this week, giving our office there a bit of assistance in this, the busiest times of the year.

One of my conditions for coming to the big city was that I'd be able to go to JFK on Monday morning to see off the first NBN Charter flight of the summer which carried 21 of "my" Olim. It's one of my regrets that I haven't been able to do this more often during the course of my Shlichut (this was only the second time I've managed it out of 13 charter flights whilst I've been here) so I wasn't going to pass up on an opportunity.

I arrived at the airport with 3 of my colleagues and after saying hi to my friends on the NBN staff I went to find my people; a young girl just out of High School who's father I know from the football field who'll be going to the IDF, an incredible family who I've had lots of contact with over the years I've been here, young people from Philly, Richmond, Rockville and Atlanta and a great guy from SC. I missed 3 of my other people - young Olim, going to the army and also missed much of the goodbye ceremony when I realised that a family of 6 was nowhere to be seen.

Eventually I tracked the mother and kids down and it was obvious why they weren't at the ceremony; rental car being returned, unloading one car and another car with luggage somewhere at JFK (but not where it should have been). I take the view that different people need different things from their Shaliach. I did what was needed at that time - schlepped suitcases and drafted in others to help (a family of 6 takes a lot of bags!) and wrote out a dozen luggage labels to make sure that everything got there safely. I saw pictures of the family at Ben Gurion the next day so everything must have worked out (although I don't know about their bags).

All in all it was a tremendous experience to see my Olim off. The next time I do it, I'll be with Mrs G and the monkey and we'll be getting on the plane with the Olim on our way home - something which I've been dreaming of doing for a while (more in another post).

Leaving friends behind

2009-07-05T06:28:00.002+03:00

Friday night was a memorable one. I have been suggesting for a while that rather than spending all day cooking we should be having "bistro style" meals - simple and hearty with like minded friends, possibly with shared preparation.

The holiday weekend provided a perfect opportunity to try this out with a Bar B Q theme and an invite to one of our favourite couples with another of our favourites also on the guest list.

We arrived early on Friday with a 6 pack of Sam Adams and a marinated London Broil (basically a big steak - in London it's called something totally different). I took out the meat and made sure the grill man had a beer. Being a gentleman I didn't let him drink alone. Boneless chicken thighs (definitely the best for grilling) were already cooking and as the meat went on, so too did some thick slices of seasoned red peppers.

A couple of flips later and we were ready to roll. The menfolk went to shul, womenfolk discussed their knitting and the monkey played with their little lady (got a goodnight kiss out of the evening, we already like the parents.....)

The addition of an excellent green salad and some oven roasted potato and some sweetcorn finished the menu in style. A bottle of red, some beers and a 15 year old Balvenie graced the table.

We talked, laughed and ate our fill in a casual meal that continued until late. As Shabbat meals go it's up high on the list. Even the monkey transferred comfortably.

Although I've missed our friends at home, we've been blessed to land up in a community with plenty of like minded people and have made some amazing friendships. We'll miss them but look forward to hosting them in the years to come.

Gilly

Hard at work

2009-06-19T13:33:00.002+03:00

A busy week has seen me in Atlanta helping out a colleague by meeting with some people for her. Next week I'm doing a similar favour but in NYC for 3 days.

Just did a count and realised that (not even including the New York people next week) we'll be sending close to 150 people to Israel between now and the end of August which is pretty awesome!

Still trying to figure out the exact details of the return trip but will most certainly be home no later than the 18th which is incredibly exciting. The job front is still worrying me but I had an email from the HR guy the other day that he needs to speak with me - we just having been able to find a time to speak - hopefully next week I'll have something a little more concrete.

Shabbat shalom

Safe?

2009-06-11T05:00:00.004+03:00

Driving home from work I noted a police car parked outside the JCC, a second one outside our shul and a 3rd at Chabad. I'm sure that there was one parked up outside every Jewish "target" in the Greater DC area. This of course is the response to the horrific and senseless shooting today at the US Holocaust Museum.

I was at the Holocaust Museum 2 weeks ago with guests from Israel - it's an interesting Museum, filled with school groups from across the States with tickets sold out weeks in advance (entrance is free but if you want a specific time spot ahead of time you have to pay). It's got a very different feel from Yad Vashem and is one of the most visited museums in the country. It also has a hefty security presence of the type with which Israelis are very familiar - think of the Central Bus Station or the Kanyon - X ray machines, metal detectors and big men with guns and no sense of humour.

The US second amendment allows pretty much anyone the right to go into a store and buy a gun - Target doesn't sell them (not around these parts at least) but for a bog standard white supremacist nut (a reminder that it's not just the Islamic extremists who hate us) to get his hands on firearms doesn't take too much.

So the alternate scenario for today is what has got me seriously nervous - this guy chose a hard target - security sitting there armed to the teeth and, although he killed one guard (our thoughts are with his family) he was quickly dealt with (not well enough in my book as he's still in intensive care rather than the morgue). Had he chosen a soft target - walked into a Synagogue on Shabbat morning with a weapon and extra ammo however, the scene would have been one of carnage.

I'm glad to be going back to a place where the rules are so strict that I can't get a gun license just because I want to pack heat (the 2nd is one of the amendments which I don't buy into (the 18th was at least abolished later and the less said about the 19th the better :) ) and where the security services are able to deal with this sort of thing far more effectively than in the land of the free. Oftentimes people will tell me that they consider Israel a dangerous place - for Jews the US is potentially far more dangerous - I just wish people would take the hint before something really horrible happens.

Sundays

2009-06-08T04:44:00.002+03:00

The notion of having a lazy day on which you can do nothing - Sunday is certainly something that I shall miss.

Today, having woken as late as the monkey would allow, I took said young man to the park whilst Mrs G got together a picnic lunch. We then departed for the Eastern Market downtown. We had a most pleasant wander around the market which will very shortly be moving back to it's revamped location (a devastating fire destroyed most of the original location and it's been in a temporary spot whilst the rebuilding has been done). The weather was stunning, the crowd in good spirits. Excellent jazz from a pavement band kept the mood up and I even managed to find what it was that I'd come with a view to purchasing - a souvenir of DC for our wall in Israel.

From there we headed a few blocks over to the zoo. Like the other national institutions in DC, this has the added benefit of being completely free. We ate our lunch and then strolled through, stopping off at the gorillas and other apes, small mammals house (which delighted our own small mammal) and elephants. The pandas were left for another trip and the big cats had all gone in for an early night by the time we reached them.

We took a slow drive home and feasted on leftovers from our wonderful shabbat meals, leaving time for me to catch up on my emails and Mrs G to sprawl in front of the Tony awards.

One of my Olim put the Sunday experience into an interesting perspective which helps me to deal with the return to the Friday off, Sunday on structure. In Israel we look forward to Shabbat - our day of rest. The moment Shabbat goes out we're preparing for the week ahead and therefore every minute is precious. In Chutz La'aretz we're looking forward to the end of Shabbat so that we can go out on Saturday night and then enjoy our real day of rest - Sunday. that viewpoint really struck me - although it's quite a natural thing to do, it's so wrong if you think of it like that. So, although I will miss having a Sunday, I will be looking forward to what should be my day of rest when we get home.

Things we can't get in Israel

2009-06-03T04:49:00.005+03:00

I don't know how on earth I'll manage without Pegetables (pronounced pej'te-bels - it's "vegetables" with a P - thanks incredibly helpful website for helping me solve that one!) when we go back to Israel - we Israelis think we're creative but no-one has come up with something quite this brilliant and it's a poorer country for it.

What does a dog really need to keep him healthy? Vegetables cunningly disguised as........ vegetables! Yes - someone had the incredible idea that to get dogs to eat their 2 veg a day they should camouflage them in carrot, corn and celery shapes / flavors (sic). They keep the dog's coat shiny, give it energy and detoxify it's liver - presumably after a big night out and of course most importantly they are "fun"!

Healthy too - just check out the ingredients:

U.S.A. hydrolyzed wheat protein, glycerin, dehydrated carrot, corn meal, dehydrated celery, natural flavor, powdered cellulose, sunflower oil, mono and diglycerides, titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, calcium carbonate, calcium hydroxide, wheat bran, flax oil (source of omega 3 fatty acid), vitamin mix (vitamins A, D3, E, and B12 supplements, riboflavin, niacin, d-calcium pantothenate, folic acid, menadione sodium bisulfite complex, pyridoxine, thiamin, biotin), yellow 5 lake, yellow 6 lake, blue 2 lake, preserved with sodium metabisulfite and mixed tocopherols, beta-carotene

Mmmmmmmmm - gotta love that yellow 5 lake! The more eagle eyed will have notived that they contain no peanuts so if your canine has a peanut allergy you're absolutely safe on that count (although the peanut thing is not as big in Israel as in the US so maybe that's not such a biggy).

Here was me thinking that dogs were actually carnivores and the best way to get them to eat something was to give them meat or something that looked like a bone to eat - thank goodness for this wonderful product that has shown me the error of my ways - I can't imagine how dogs have lived through all these milennia without them!

Everyone join in - "with a nick nack, paddy wack, give a dog a carrot....."

What amazing thing will these crazy Yanks think up next to remind us who leads the world?

2 days

2009-05-31T05:22:00.002+03:00

Observance of the festivals create a problem for an Israeli overseas. The major ones, Pesach (Passover), Sukkot (Tabernacles) and Shavuot (Pentecost) are celebrated for one day in Israel whilst outside of Israel they are celebrated for two days. Historically, outside of Israel there was uncertainty as to which day should be celebrated due to the time it took for word to get out from Israel. As there are certain restrictions on 'work' during the festival, two days were celebrated to be on the safe side. Despite the fact that the calendar has been set for hundreds of years the tradition is maintained.

Logically, in olden times, a Jew travelling outside of Israel would have been subject to the same uncertainty as to when the festival fell and would therefore have kept two days. For a Jew from outside of Israel who happened to be visiting during a festival, it would have been logical to keep one day. Nowadays however, when we keep two days because that's the way it's always been rather than for any practical reason, it's most often the case that Israelis who are outside of Israel for a holiday will still keep one day, whilst non-Israelis who visit over a festival will often keep two.

I find myself in a position therefore of having one day of festivities when all around are celebrating two days. This isn't usually a problem - typically I'll grab some DVDs beforehand and stay at home or head out surreptitiously wearing a cap (which involves a different issue - Ma'arit Ayin - which I may discuss at some other time but not here and now).

We have just celebrated the festival of Shavuot, the first day of which fell on Friday - which means that for those who celebrate two days, the second was today - Shabbat. It's the first time that I've encountered this combination and raises a slightly different set of issues than normal. Whereas usually synagogue is not a problem (on regular days I pray at home in the morning rather than at synagogue), here it presents a problem as it means that my normal Shabbat prayers are different - certain additions are made including a whole addition section - Hallel. The Torah reading is also different as is the kiddush.

I got around the problem in an obvious way - took a "sabbatical" (stayed at home with a book and the monkey). Just to get appropriate approval I checked with an appropriate authority - my father in law (who is not a Rabbi but my it keeps me out of trouble with Mrs G if I'm on the same page as he is) - and he told me without prompting that he'd probably do the same. When it came to kiddush we just did it in two different versions - problem solved.

Looking forward to being home where none of these conflicts exist and I don't have to get upset that we're carrying on another tradition for which there is no longer any rationale.

Gilly

Football

2009-05-28T04:01:00.002+03:00

Being here in the States has played havoc with my viewing schedule. In a country where football is played with one's hands wearing a suit of armour, I had a choice of paying for an expensive cable package or finding an expat pub to watch my games.

Given the time difference of 5 hours, Shabbat games were a no go and although I was occasionally able to tweak my schedule to be in DC for midweek games, in general these fell during the working day. This has left me with Sunday - the one day off when I can do things with my family. Whilst Mrs G has been absolutely amazing in letting me head off to the pub bright and early (first beer at 9 am for the earlier games), I do feel somewhat guilty and usually end up following games via an internet commentary (as I did today with Barcelona's thrashing / humilitiation of the Manchester Utd scum).

I am soooooooo looking forward to being back in a country where football is football and a fascination with all things Premier League means that I'll have easy access to my boys in red - not to mention the fact that Yossi Benayoun's amazing run of form means that there will be a bias towards showing my games. Shabbat games in the winter, Sunday matches and all of the Champions League and midweek schedule will be available to me and I'll have more than 101greatgoals to assist in keeping up with the league - in the season when the reds finally bring home the League trophy to its true home.

Cats and Dogs

2009-05-26T12:03:00.002+03:00

Despite the fact that Memorial Day is all about the start of summer in the States, the rain is pounding down and I'm not sure how I'm going to make it to work in the morning without a wetsuit and flippers.

Having been brought up in London, one of the things that I really appreciate about Israel is the ability to plan for the day ahead, knowing that you don't need an indoor contingency plan. The sun will shine from April - October - it's just a question of whether it's going to be a hot day or a very hot day. No need to pack umbrellas and rain suits just in case (my rain suit is part of the permanent loan collection from the IDF - they don't need them most of the year so I might as well get some benefit from my years of Miluim). I love having some things that are certain in life and decent weather is amongst them.

Now if we could only be certain that in winter it would rain.....

Memorial Day

2009-05-26T03:35:00.003+03:00

So as far as I can tell after today, Americans choose to remember the fallen by barbecuing, bouncing castles, music and funnel cakes. It marks the start of the summer; kids celebrate the start of the pool season (although canine /feline inspired rain put a damper on that) and we all enjoy a day off work.

Is it just me or is that not completely screwed up? "Memorial day sale" is not a phrase which should trip off the tongue - but it is treated as a completely normal concept here. Maybe I missed out on a briefing or something but surely we should be thinking about those who have died so that we can enjoy our freedom rather than simply going out and enjoying that freedom?

My next memorial day will be properly somber, with a siren that will bring the entire country to a halt in solemn unity - remembering all those who have died in defence of the State.

Neil

Surprising times

2009-05-17T20:11:00.003+03:00

Today is Mrs G's birthday. She's been telling me for years that she wants a surprise party but if you keep asking for it, how can it be a surprise? Anyhow - this year she hadn't mentioned it - in particular this past week I've been putting in some serious mileage and not having too much sleep whilst she was out of town for a few days for a wedding.

Wednesday night found me frantically baking (using the yeast from the previous post) - knot rolls with fried onion and plain rolls with lemon zest and rosemary. Thursday night I made sinfully rich, calorie laden brownies. I picked up beer and wine, chips and salsa and salad ingredients which were carefully stashed behind other things until they were needed.

Invites went round on facebook. Everyone volunteered to bring something.

Here's the kicker - the surprise took place in our little apartment, with all set up and people arriving whilst Mrs G was in the apartment having her Shabbat nap. So much could have gone wrong - she could have noticed extra food around the place or woken up early but I figured that I was due a little luck given the hard work that I'd put in and so it came to pass that at 18:00 there were somewhere around 30 people quietly waiting in the apartment, table laden with food whilst I went in to waken my sleeping beauty.

The look on her face was priceless as she walked out and suffice to say that she was speechless (anyone who knows her will understand just how surprised she must have been). It was a really lovely celebration.

We have an amazing bunch of friends here and we'll be sad to leave you behind but look forward to spending future smachot ba'Aretz with you.

I have an amazing wife.

Gilly

Seasonality

2009-05-15T07:30:00.002+03:00

I bake. The bread in the US sucks so rather than complain about it I decided to make my own. It comes out pretty good and I've started tweaking it with all sorts of additional little things like garlic, rosemary, fried onions, sun dried tomatoes and lemon zest (the latter is really good).

Anyhow - so as to figure out what I was doing I read a book with lots of great recipes and decided to buy it. Having done so, I figured that it was really a bit to complicated and went back to a simple Jamie Oliver recipe which I've been using since.

I managed to find the yeast that all the bakers recommend at Trader Joes, ditto the flour and all was happy - my challot keep getting better.

So I sauntered into Trader Joe's the other day and there's no yeast on the shelf where it usually is. I found a friendly person in a Hawaiian shirt to help me out and he informed me that yeast is a "seasonal product" which confused me. I ask if he was aware of what yeast is used for and when it became clear that he wasn't a complete moron, asked him whether he ate bread in the summer.

I decided to check out the Trader Joe's near my home when I headed out in that direction the next day and was amazed to be told exactly the same thing. Yeast people, is seasonal at Trader Joe's! I was distressed by now as no-one else sells that brand. Fortunately I was up in Baltimore the next day and the store there had lots so I bought up enough to see me through.

Any thoughts on this one - do Americans stop eating bread at the end of the hockey season? What do they put there hot dogs in on July 4th? Did I miss something here?

Gilly

Captive fish

2009-05-07T13:43:00.003+03:00

Michael Freund's article in the Jpost today expressed perfectly a lot of my frustrations with the place of Aliyah on the agenda of Orthodox Jewry in the US.

The piece made me think about the old argument that "as a fish lives in water, so a Jew should live in Israel". A friend of mine has a beautiful fish tank. Huge. Takes up the wall of his living room. A state of the art filter system keeps the water clean. The water is kept at the right temperature year round. On a regular basis he dumps the requisite amount of food into the tank so that all the fish need to do is open their mouths and swim to the top of the tank. New plants are added as old ones die out. He takes care to maintain a balance - sudden death is rare because there are no predators in the tank and it's conditions are controlled nicely. The lights go on and off on a regular basis.

Fish are not meant to live in a tank. They're meant to live in the sea, or a river, or a lake. The conditions are more difficult - hunting for food, keeping safe from sharks and other fish, occasional spills of pollution, icing over in the winter. That however is their natural condition and their overall quality of life when living as G-d intended will be far superior than going round and round in circles in an environment which whilst pleasant is still artificial - no matter the hardships involved.

Captive fish don't have the choice to go back to their home. If they did, they'd take it in a second.

Gilly

Things that I will miss

2009-05-04T03:12:00.001+03:00

We're into May which means that there's a little more than 3 months to go before we're back in Israel. I'm tremendously excited to be heading home, somewhat nervous as the future is a little uncertain but whatever happens is for the best. Having had a wonderful Shabbat, I've been thinking about the things that I'll miss - mainly little things to be honest but you do grow certain attachments.

If there was one store that I could take with me it would be Trader Joe's. Those who are in the know will most certainly be nodding your heads in agreement. For those who are unfamiliar, this is a market like no other that I've encountered - lots of good, imaginative food, much of it kosher (the web site has a guide to kosher symbols on it. The feel of a gourmet market but without inflated prices and a wicked sense of humour. We'll miss our two local stores very much - but will be happy to exchange them for Machane Yehuda - my very favourite place!

When we first visited the US after we got married I met and fell in love with Target - a store where you can really get everything (except fresh fruit and veg in most locations). Over the years I've bought clothes, furnishings, kitchenwares, photos, electronics, cosmetics, crisps (Archer Farms Wasabi Mustard - highly addictive), cleaning products, storage solutions and on and on and on........ Really there's no need to have any other store (apart from TJ's off course).

There are other things that I'll miss - plentiful, guilt free, piping hot water on demand 24/7, snow in winter, 4 seasons in the year, petrol at $2 a gallon, but mostly the thing that I'll be missing will be the friends who we've made whilst we've been here - you know who you are (though you probably aren't reading) - we feel blessed and will look forward to your visits and ultimately the day when you step off the airplane with an Aliyah visa in your passport.

The countdown is on!

Gilly

Important decisions - location, location, location

2009-04-21T12:35:00.003+03:00

Mrs G and I have been scratching our heads trying to figure out where we want to live upon our return to Israel. We've been somewhat spoiled - our beautiful Baka apartment has a private entrance and a garden which is great for entertaining and we renovated the place ourselves. It's also where I proposed so it has lots of sentimental connections. For the last 3 years we've been renting it out to lovely people and on visiting over Pesach we were pleased to see that it's looking great and that our lemon tree is bearing fruit for the first time.

The flip side is however, that a 2 bedroom place is too small and the different levels that it inhabits (it's an imaginatively renovated old Arab style apartment split into 3 levels) means that the monkey will climb on everything (and hence will also fall off everything too). Mrs G has finally conceded that we can't live there again so we've been looking for other possibilities.

We've made the call to stay in Jerusalem - although I'd be happy to find a Yishuv already, my better half is insistent and as I'll likely be working in Jerusalem I can concede on that without much difficulty. The expense of Jerusalem is a worry though and, recognising that finding a bigger place in Baka (ideally we'd love a 5 room - that is 4 bedroom place) might well break the bank, we've been looking at nearby areas which are not as popular.

Over Pesach we spent a day with a wonderful realtor, looking at apartments in Armon Hanatziv. As the community has moved southwards and Ulpan Etzion has relocated into this neighbourhood, I feel that it has become a more viable option and still within range of our old stomping grounds. We saw 7 places in 5 hours and were impressed by what's available at prices which I wouldn't have believed possible in Jerusalem (including a stunning house at a price similar to what is being paid in Buchman, Modi'in where prices are now through the roof). We're pretty happy with the idea of making the move and now just need to get our place on the market and figure out which of the properties most interests us. My main concern is selling our place in the current market and it may be that we will end up renting first in the neighbourhood or close by but fingers crossed we'll find a buyer!

Gilly

a teasing taster

2009-04-20T12:36:00.003+03:00

I have just spent two wonderful weeks in Israel over Pesach, knowing that we'll be back for good in August. Despite the fact that Mrs G. had her nose in her books for most of our visit, we were able to spend a lot of quality time with the family allowing the monkey to get to know his Grandparents, Uncles, Aunts and cousins again. We weren't able to cram in as many friends as we wanted to, but in particular spent our last Friday morning running up and down Emek from one to the next (including meeting the fiancee of a very close friend) and managing to fit in two things that I'd been really looking forward to - Kuba soup and Burgers Bar!

During the course of the trip I had some great meetings regarding possible jobs and we were able to make some reasonable ground regarding where we'll be living as we need to upsize somewhat. I made it to my favourite place in the world (the Shuk) where I treated myself to the breakfast of kings - pitta straight from the oven and freshly squeezed juice, something which I've missed tremendously.

We arrived back in the US after a long and trying flight (the monkey was well behaved but far too awake for 7 hours of a 9 hour flight) but with the knowledge that our next trip is one way and not too far off (less than 4 months to go). The visit has given my batteries a much needed charge to inspire me to August.

I'm going to be reviving this blog slowly with some of my thoughts about our return home.

Gilly

Frank Stein z"l

2009-03-31T02:40:00.002+03:00

I received a call today from a friend and colleague to tell me that Frank Stein passed away earlier. I'd been adding him to the list of Cholim (seriously ill people) for whom we pray in synagogue each week ever since I'd received an email from a different colleague notifying me of his cancer, but had been expecting him to pull through - an expert with whom I'm close had told me that it was one of the more curable strains.

In the days before Nefesh B'Nefesh, there were Olim associations. In 1991 Frank was taken on board by the British Olim Society (BOS) to act as a counsellor to Olim and prospective Olim. My first encounter with him was 5 years later when he came to my Ulpan on a regular basis to help Olim adjust to life and have an easy outlet for their questions. 3 years later I encountered him again - I was working for the Jpost at the time which was cosponsoring a series of English language election events together with the Olim associations at about a dozen locations around the country. Every night found me in a different city - Frank would be there too.

Frank really came into my life in a big way shortly after the elections when I answered an ad from UJIA Israel which incorporated the BOS in the 1990s. They were looking for 2 people to work with Olim - to show them the ropes. I was one of 15 people who were interviewed. Were I interviewing myself then for the same position now, I'd have said that I was too young and too green for the job. I got the job - Frank was the one who called to tell me. He and the boss, Shifra decided to give me a chance. I haven't looked back.

Frank mentored me through the early years, teaching me what I needed to know, patiently reviewing the material, sitting in on my first interviews, giving me my first independent assignments, letting me loose on the webpage, trusting me to do things right. He was very hands off but he was always close by when I had a question on some archaic detail of the rules of Bituach Leumi or Australian pensions law.

Every week, Frank would work late into Thursday night, catching up on the emails that had piled up over the previous seven days, making sure that people had appropriate, accurate and complete answers to their questions. Over the years he helped thousands of people to make the right choice, to come with appropriate expectations and information - he was a one man "Aliyahpedia".

I remember how terrified I was when Frank announced that he was not going to be dealing with Olim anymore, and how comforted I felt to know that he was close by still.

Frank was a very private person; his apartment in Talpiot shared with his beloved cats. He never met the right person with whom to settle down. I was lucky enough to be welcomed into his inner circle and to enjoy the fruits of his labours in the kitchen - complete with exquisite presentation.

Since he moved to other accommodation we saw less and less of each other and the last time I saw him was before I headed out for Shlichut. We exchanged emails earlier in the year when he did a short shlichut in South Africa before he was diagnosed at which time he seemed pretty upbeat.

Frank has touched the lives of thousands both directly and indirectly. Although I didn't need his assistance in my Aliyah, he was instrumental in my long term absorption by choosing me for a position which led in a pretty straight line to my current position - jobs which have enabled me to help thousands of people too, to weather the storms of the intifada and the recession and to have tremendous job satisfaction.

Sometimes you cross paths with a wonderful person; when our paths intersected Frank took my hand and guided me, sending me off on my own when I was capable - it's proven to be a successful route - like many people, I owe him a great deal. He'll be very missed.

The only good terrorist.....

2008-07-16T16:43:00.003+03:00

This morning, the bodies of Eldad Regev and Ehud Goldwasser were returned to Israel. It's an incredibly sad day for their families and Am Yisrael.

In return, Samir Kuntar, perpetrator of one of the most infamous murders in Israeli history is being released together with 4 Hezbollah terrorists (I note that Haaretz has decided that they can be referred to as "militants" - thanks for nothing), Palestinian prisoners and remains. Hezbollah and Hamas are throwing parties in the streets of Gaza and Beirut in celebration at the release of this evil piece of work.

Following the Bulldozer pigua in Jerusalem, former Jerusalem Police Chief Mickey Levy wrote an op-ed in Ynetnews, under the headline "confirming kill immoral" arguing that once the terrorist:

"was neutralized, there is no room to shoot again – even if this is the most terrible and despicable terrorist."

Or in other words, take him prisoner, lock him up so that a subsequent government can release him to a hero's welcome, underlining our weakness so that he can kill again.

In April 1984, 4 Palestinian terrorists hijacked a number 300 bus and demanded the release of 500 prisoners. A unit led by Yitzchak Mordechai stormed the bus, freeing the prisoners. It later emerged that 2 of the terrorists were killed during the operation and 2 more were led off the bus and subsequently killed by the Shin Bet Security service. The killing was covered up at the time but later came to light.

Had the 2 not been killed at the time then they too, would doubtless have enjoyed a similar celebratory release to that which Kuntar is enjoying and would also have gone on to kill more innocent Israelis.

The rule of law is important. Sometimes however, we pander to the terrorist scum far too much. Marwhan Bargouti has become something of a martyr, a cause celebre by sitting in an Israeli jail. Calls go out periodically for his release too. The handing over of Kuntar will only cause the emboldening of Hizbollah and Hamas to kidnap more Israelis to use as bargaining chips to get Barghouti and the like released.

Sometimes it's pretty clear what the just thing to do is - that the police who watched Kuntar kill Danny and Einat Haran did not immediately fill him with lead, choosing instead to arrest him is inexplicable to me. We had the opportunity to kill Arafat in Lebanon and didn't go ahead - how many lives did that cost? How many lives will the failure to send Barghouti to his 72 virgins when we had the chance cost us.

Mickey Levy's moral concerns may be justified in New York or London but in our neighbourhood they're clearly flawed. It's time to take the gloves off and to send a clear message to terrorists: Zero tolerance. If you live by the sword, we will make sure that you die by the sword, bullet or missile. No more second chances.

Gilly

Celebrating 60

2008-05-08T16:30:00.002+03:00

It's a bitter sweet day for me - even before I arrived to take up my position in the States we have been talking about Israel at 60 and working towards planning celebrations. Last night I had the honour of lighting a torch at an extremely impressive and emotional local several hundred strong celebration. On June 1st I'll have the satisfaction of thousands (if not tens of thousands) of people visiting the community's major event, taking place at a location which is recognised around the world, which I've taken a small role in assisting to prepare.

I have spent much time over the last months talking about Israel's achievements in 60 short years, speaking to groups and individuals about my area of expertise in particular but plenty of general conversations, and admiring the incredible work that my talented colleagues have been bringing to their communities across the world.

I am blessed with the knowledge that today, literally hundreds of new Israelis, Olim from North America, are spending their first Yom Ha'atzmaut in Israel as citizens of the country, and that I had a part in their getting there.

But the feeling is muted by the fact that I'm celebrating from afar in the US - without the sirens for Yom Hazikaron, without the smoke rising and smell of mangal as I look out the window, without the enterprising young kids selling flags for the car at 5 shekels a throw at every traffic light, without the jams as I try to go out on tiyul, with no music on the radio or politicos on the TV, no sheleg spray on Ben Yehuda, air force fly past, without being able to spend this amazing day with my friends, family, neighbours and fellow Israelis - it's all something of a let down.

There will be other celebrations and the time will fly by until we get back home - a little over a year to go and we'll look back wondering where the time has gone.

Being able to celebrate in Israel is a very special thing. We are a privileged generation that can say L'shana Ha'ba B'yerushalayim and know that if we want to, we can pack up and get on a plane and be there in our holy city, celebrating our independence with all or Am Yisrael. As more and more of us choose to do so, let's hope that the day when all of the exiles shall be in gathered is not far off.

Chag Sameach

Gilly

Give thanks but walk with a big stick

2007-11-06T11:53:00.000+02:00

Sunday was spent at the National Mall with a heavily pregnant Mrs G, trying to shake the baby down by walking the monuments from Lincoln to Washington. A centrepiece of DC, the national monuments are all housed in the Mall, with the Capitol building at one end , a grassy expanse covered with pick up football and ultimate Frisbee games, the Washington Monument in the middle and the Lincoln Memorial at the far end. Sandwiched inbetween are monuments to Roosevelt and Jefferson and Memorials to the dead of WWII, Korea and Vietnam.

Whilst all the memorials are impressive, respectful, well looked after and serene, the one to which I really related was the Vietnam Memorial. 70 pieces of black granite rising to over 10 feet high, it carries the names of some 58 thousand Americans who gave their lives in this most controversial of wars in the 16 years between 1959 and 1975. Located between the monuments to 2 great Presidents, it is a place where people gather to mourn their loved ones in a public setting, which, although its design provoked controversy initially, now seems to be part of a consensus.

Every year at memorial day, the names of the dead and the MIAs are read from the wall, much as is done in Israel on Yom Hazikaron. It takes days to do so.

The Korean War memorial, on the other side of the mall, bears a simple inscription: "Freedom is not Free". It's a very basic truth and often forgotten. Sometimes you have to stand up and fight because it's the correct and moral thing to do. Some fight on their own doorsteps to protect their families and friends; others travel across the continents to fight for what is right.

We remember our war dead with great respect but we also need to remember what they fought for and to honour their memories by continuing to fight for it; the next conflict has already begun and it seems that much of the Western world doesn't have the stomach for it, expecting it's freedoms to be without price. Churchill was dismissed as a warmonger in the 1930s for continuously warning of the coming conflict, whilst Chamberlain sought to appease. There's a very obvious parallel in the way in which the world is dealing with Iran, Syria et al today. We should remember how far the policy of appeasement got us in 1939.

California Dreamin'

2007-09-04T04:18:00.000+03:00

One of the down sides to living in a different country to your family is that holidays tend to be spent returning to the home in which you grew up and revisiting your old friends and haunts. Rarely do you manage to get away somewhere else on the limited holiday time which most jobs offer.

A few years back, Gilly Jr. (really that should be Dr. Gilly Jr.) and I decided to break this trend by travelling to Turkey together. We did the same the following year only this time in Spain. Then I got married and a third country came into the picture - the Grandparents in the US. And now that we're in the US we have a UK, USA, Israel triangle so what are the chances of taking a holiday without causing a broiges?

Anyhow, having made the obligatory (but very welcome) trip home for Pesach this year, coinciding with a visit from my Mother, Mrs G was very keen to get away for a few days at the end of the summer after she quit her job and things quietened down in my office. A few restrictions needed to be overcome; a beach, no hurricanes, warm forecast and not too expensive - which looked a formidable obstacle in hurricane season with flights to the West Coast sky high (excuse the pun).

Then Mrs G found a very wonderful site called www.lastminute.com - basically the US equivalent of Daka90 - flights, hotel for 4 nights and rental of a car in Los Angeles came in at a steal and with the only down side being the possibility of running into the Beckhams we decided to book.

Intermission story.

Last month my credit card had a charge on it which looked dodgy so I queried it. After a couple of weeks I got a reasonable explanation - and an additional charge for not paying the bill (it was the only charge on a card I don't use much) - in other words, the only way to avoid this additional charge would have been to pay the charge that I was disputing and then to reclaim the money if it turned out to be bogus. Anyhow - I wanted to use this same credit card to pay for the holiday - the card got turned down as (on top of the charge) they'd put a block on my using the card again until the bill was paid because I hadn't paid because I was disputing. How's that for insult to injury? This was a credit card that I'd held for 15 years, never made a late payment on, have a credit line of over 6000 pounds a month (yes a British, not an Israeli card) and they've frozen it over a charge of 40 lousy quid!

End of intermission.

So we were to have 5 lovely days in LA. Landing at the airport we went to pick up the rental car and I came up with the smart idea of renting a GPS - my friends - if you want to promote Shalom Bayit this is a wonderful ideal. For $8 a day, we managed to get through the trip without one argument over directions - normally we'd have been at it hammer and tongs after 30 seconds! LA is big - huge actually and without a car you're lost - we covered a lot of ground.

We hit up a different beach every day: Venice, Huntingdon, Malibu, Balboa and Laguna - and I managed to avoid burning myself, returning a wonderful shade of brown. The Hollywood sign, Walk of Fame, Chinese Theatre, Mulholland Drive, Sunset Boulevard, Rodeo Drive (window!) shopping, Beverley Hills, Getty Center, Balboa Island Jeff's Gourmet, Open Air Cinema, free Jazz at Hollywood and Highland - what an amazing blast.

Even the weather was great - hot but not humid.

For all my grousing about the US I have to admit that I really loved LA and hope to visit the West Coast again at some point whilst we were here!

Gilly

Take me out to the Bor-ing

2007-08-22T12:38:00.000+03:00

As a sports fan, there are some American sports that I "get" and others that I really don't. Basketball and American "Football" fall into the former category, whilst Baseball is firmly fixed in the latter.

Baseball however, is one of those things like "Mom's Apple Pie" that is quintessentially American so when Mrs Gilly was offered a set of free tickets (face value $5) to a game between the Washington Nationals and the Phillies (her home town team and officially the "losingest (sic) team in sports" we headed off to RFK Stadium.

The basics of Baseball are pretty simple - effectively Rounders with testosterone: one team in the field with a guy throwing the ball, one team batting with a guy out in the middle trying to hit it and to advance round the bases - fairly simple to understand for the newcomer. Clearly it's a little more complex then that but in principle, you can walk into a game, never having heard of the sport and very quickly catch on to what's going on.

Understanding the game is made even simpler by the fact that there were long chunks of time when nothing happened during which I could ask the knowledgeable guy in front. Very long chunks of time in fact. This I found surprising as American sport has a reputation for always having plenty going on - short bites of action interspersed with plenty of commercial breaks to pay all the inflated salaries. Certainly, baseball is like cricket with ADD - the innings are short and the teams are constantly changing over - but watching one side sit down whilst the other gets up is hardly the stuff that highlight reels are made of.

Reading up on baseball and speaking with people about the game, it seems that the fact that it's boring is widely acknowledged (Google yielded 135,000 references when I searched for "baseball boring" - whilst "cricket boring" only came up with 96,700). The celebrated "7th innings stretch" whereby everyone gets out of their seats and stretches their legs was actually a high point. That everyone sings "take me out to the ball game" at this point (presumably every game) was very endearing.

So here's my take on the game and why it's so boring - basically the moments of excitement are when the batsman hits the ball forwards. In baseball the advantage is skewed in the direction of the pitcher due to the fact that the bat is skinny and rounded so that in order to get a worthwhile hit you've got to be extremely exact. The vast majority of the time therefore, the batter is either missing the ball or fouling it (the ball flies off behind or to the sides) - and therefore you're in yawn territory for 90% of the 3+ hours of the game. Moments of excitement are either fleeting (we had 3 home runs) or far between (batsman on bases hoping that the one at bat is going to hit something - most often coming up blank).

By way of comparison, cricket is of course a far longer game, even in the limited overs format, but as the batsman has to hit the ball in order to stay out in the middle there is a lot more going on. It's also a far more tactical game - I was unable to discern any difference in the field settings in baseball throughout the game - for cricket it's essential.

Even with the kosher hot dog stand, beer during the game and a free ticket, I walked away no closer to understanding its appeal and with the feeling that it lend itself far better to a short summary of the highlights on the news - it's an experience which I doubt will be repeated. For the record, the Phillies didn't add to their losses, taking this one 4 - 2.

Nostalgia for Misrad Hapnim

2007-08-11T01:25:00.001+03:00

A little over a year ago, I applied for a J1 Visa which would allow me to be a "legal alien" in the US. After making an appointment online, I went along to the American Consulate in East Jerusalem (a fairly surreal experience) and 10 days later my passport was back with a visa attached, good for 1 year instead of the 3 I'd requested (my shlichut has a 2 year contract but it generally extends to a 3rd year).

A year later, I've just received a couple of sheets of paper from my employers which I know are somehow related to the visa but not really sure how they work - so I pick up the phone and ask. Apparently, they mean that as long as I have these papers, I'm legal in the States despite my visa running out shortly (great). So how do I get a new visa? I ask, expecting to be told which Government office to go to.

Not that simple. In order to get a new visa, I've got to go to an office in........Jerusalem - the same one as I originally visited. If I leave the US after August 20th, I will not be allowed back (I'm not even going to risk giving it a shot with my British passport - the fact that it "might" work is no real comfort).

Now this is all well and good assuming that I don't want to leave the States other than to Israel - fortunately cousin David got married in Canada when the Visa was still valid but what if I fancy a trip to the UK to visit Mum? No go - as is the Caribbean holiday that Mrs Gilly was trying to talk me into.

This works the same way for a friend of mine who is here with his (American) wife. In order to get a working visa, he has to find a job and then go to Israel to apply for a visa.

I respect the US's right to set policies for visas any way it likes but it puts the fact that you can make an appointment (if you can get through on the phone) at Misrad Hapnim and go and get a visa without having to spend $1000 on an air ticket into a slightly happier light. Yes they're inefficient, don't speak the language and all too frequently on strike - but at least they don't require a 12 hour plane journey.....

Shabbat shalom

Gilly

Gas? Just a load of hot air.....

2007-07-17T02:20:00.000+03:00

"Carbon footprint" seems to be a bit of a buzz phrase in this part of the world - basically the idea that a responsible person tries to put as little CO2 into the environment as possible, both directly and indirectly seems to have some sort of resonance with trendy soccer Moms, film stars and the like.

This is hardly compatible however with Americans bitching about the price of gas - recently it's hit $3 a gallon. For those used to litres, a gallon is about 3.78 litres so the equivalent in the UK would be hovering just under 40p a litre. It seems to be pretty true to say that unless you're living in an oil producing nation, you're not going to get much cheaper.

Rather than thanking their lucky stars however, America has chosen to compensate - quite simply, cars here are bigger and guzzle more fuel. When we arrived in the country, we figured something similar to our car in Israel would be fine - a 1.6l is fairly standard and the Mazda 3 (with a 1.6l) engine is the most popular family car.

Not a chance - as far as I can make out the only thing in the US with a 1.6 litre engine is a lawnmower or some high powered hairdryers. 1.8 seems to be the very smallest engine in common production - we have a Matrix, which is a Corolla with a boot/trunk which is considered a small or "compact" car:

Looking out on the parking lot outside my office, it looks like an SUV show - the last time I had a hire car here, they'd run out of compacts so they gave me something in that medium size range:

And were you to want something really big for a special occasion:

In short, there's a lot of moaning about the gas price but when you drive a behemoth which is completely unnecessary and environmentally irresponsible then you're not going to get much by way of sympathy from me...

Gilly

On Credit

2007-07-04T16:57:00.000+03:00

The Israel banking system is weird right? You get charged too much for doing too little all the time? Okay - hate it or hate it, we all accept that for the meantime anyway, we pay a lot and get little in return.

Here's an American experience from yesterday which may change perspectives.

About a couple of months ago, I applied for a credit card through my bank. There's this thing called a credit rating system in the States which basically means that if you pay your bills on time your rating goes up and if you default and pass bad cheques it goes down. A newcomer to the US has neither a good rating, nor a bad one and therefore in order to get a credit card takes some time - in the meantime we have a debit card which works just fine but takes a little more organisation with regards to how much to keep available and how much to have earning interest.

So anyhow, my request for a credit card was turned down as I haven't got enough of a history - the fact that I get a reasonable wage paid into the account every month is seemingly not enough.
So I sat with the bank yesterday and asked them if they could give me a card with a limited line of credit instead. The answer was as follows - I'm going to break it up into very simple chunks.

"No we can't give you a card (despite the fact that now Mrs G also has a healthy salary going into the account)

What you can do however is to put $4000 into a CD (a pikadon) for 12 months.

Against that collateral, we will lend you $4000.

You can then repay the $4000 on a monthly basis.

After 12 months of seeing that you pay this money back, we'll consider giving you a credit card."

Now yesterday was a fast day and I figured that maybe a lack of water had left me dizzy. So she explained it again. In order to get a credit card, I need to take a loan?! :P

I looked at her like she was on crack. She apologised, saying that she also considered it absurd. I thanked her and left.

Anyone who tells you the Israeli banking system is weird - tell them that the American one is a lot weirder (for a newcomer anyway).

I'm keeping my money under the mattress.

Gilly

American eats......

2007-05-22T22:28:00.000+03:00

"List out your top 5 favorite places to eat at your location."

TAFKA PP has rudely tagged me with the above demand in my temporary address in the States which I'm not happy about but seeing as she said such lovely things about me and I'm being nagged and haven't written for ever....

Disclaimer: In comparison with Israel, everywhere in this part of the States is really rubbish. Generally expensive rubbish too. I'm going to utilise a little bit of poetic license in my choices. There is one exception so far in terms of places to eat, namely my first choice:

1) David Chu's, Baltimore. Baltimore is a 40 minute drive late at night which is when I usually make my return journey. David Chu's takeaway closes at 10:00 - they don't like people like me who come in at 9:55 but still serve with grace. Run by Chinese, everything I've had off the extensive menu so far is tasty and comes in huge portions which are good value for money. A lot better than any of the other kosher Asian places that I've eaten at (albeit that's a limited list). Worth a drive to get to.

2) I'm a big fan of the Deli sandwich. Stuffed full of meat, served with mustard and pickle, the rye bread sandwich is something which Americans do well. Although Eli's in DC has an atmosphere, the grill section in Kosher Mart, Rockville, the kosher Supermarket around the corner from my office trumps them. The 3 meat sub with fries and coleslaw works for me, as does the corned beef on rye or chopped liver sandwiches. No style, plenty of overstuffed substance.

3) We've eaten plenty of pizza whilst we've been here. Ben Yehuda is closest and the owner is a lovely guy who is shortly making Aliyah. Mama Leah (again, close to the office in Rockville) probably takes the taste and originality test.

4) Now here's where I'm diverting from the script; not a restaraunt (quite frankly I've finished with anything worth mentioning) but a very honorable mention goes to Trader Joe's. The funkiest market you can imagine, with very reasonable prices with so much kosher stuff that they actually have a guide to Kashrut symbols on their website. Kosher meat, bread, pickles, cereals, olives, cheeses, chili lime tortillas, sun dried tomato Humus (great idea, tastes like glue but "A" for effort) - you get the idea. My very favourite product line from this store is their pizza dough - you buy a bag of dough (regular, whole wheat or garlic and herbs) which is enough to make a 10 inch pizza at the princely cost of .99c - this brings me neatly on to my last choice - the best place to eat in this part of the world.....

5) Chez Gilly - this (soon to be) Mom and Pop outfit, sources the best, freshest ingredients (including home grown herbs) according to what's in season and depending on what takes their fancy on any given evening. From roast beef to sushi, meatballs to moroccan fish (trying a new recipe for shavuot), the pizza with 2 cheeses, fresh mushrooms, sun-dried tomatos and marinated artichokes is a Sunday night staple. Baked goods by Mrs Gilly have to be tasted to be believed. Recently fresh asparagus has been on the menu along with a variety of fish experiments. Shabbat invitations liberally extended if you're in the area.

Other memes in this series:

Nicole (Sydney, Australia)
velverse (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)
LB (San Giovanni in Marignano, Italy)
Selba (Jakarta, Indonesia)
Olivia (London, England)
ML (Utah, USA)
Lotus (Toronto, Canada)
tanabata (Saitama, Japan)
Andi (Dallas [ish], Texas, United States)
Todd (Louisville, Kentucky, United States)
miss kendra (los angeles, california, u.s.a)
Jiggs Casey (Berkeley, CA, USA! USA! USA!)
Tits McGee (New England, USA)
Kat (Ontario, Canada)
Cheezy (London, England)
tafka PP (Jerusalem, Israel)
Gilly (Maryland, USA)

Chag Sameach,

Gilly

A reminder of home

2007-03-05T21:58:00.000+02:00

Just when I'd got off the phone after being put on hold for 10 minutes......

Just when the next available Doctor's appointment is in 9 days time.......

Just after getting stiffed for car insurance...........

Just after the most miserable excuse for a Purim I can remember...........

I get the following reminder of home - from the email for public enquiries of Misrad Haklita:

" Thank you for your inquiry, I will reply after the 29th of August 2005
In case of emergency please dial the ombudsman office: 02-6752765 or the center of information of the ministry of absorption: 03-9733333"

And it helps me to laugh and not to miss home quite so much.......

I'm still alive, just uninspired but will be in Jerusalem this time next month so there is a light at the end of the tunnel.....

Gilly

Always a bridesmaid or With friends like these

2007-01-16T02:44:00.000+02:00

Since getting married, I've been introduced to an idea which I find completely baffling. Basically, I'll sum it up as "because you're a great friend, I want you to honour you by causing you to spend $250 on something that you won't particularly like and can only use once". First response? Thanks but no thanks maybe?

Yet the idea that I'm talking about is one that is firmly ingrained, at least into American Jewish society.

I'm talking of course, about bestowing the honour of being a bridesmaid upon close friends. This is a beautiful custom and one that I think is a great way of involving your nearest and dearest in your simcha. The killer sentence of course is "the theme colour is........(insert outlandish colour)"

Now look around at any simcha or through the wardrobe of your better half and the chances are that you won't find too much variety - at any simcha, black is the dominant colour amongst the ladies, most likely dressed up with some flashes of colour in the form of jewellery, wraps, pashminas etc.

The whole point of having a colour theme for the bridesmaids is of course to make sure that they are differentiated from the crowd and therefore the price of loyalty is the cost of an elegant dress in sky blue, cranberry or salmon pink; all colours which many women would not choose to wear normally (none of them is the new black after all) and will most probably not wear again in a hurry.

With guys it is a far simpler operation - in the event that there is some sort of theme it will be in the form of a kippa or tie of the same colour at a cost of a few dollars, matched to a standard dark suit. So why don't girls do the same thing? Everyone wear an LBD but add a wrap, sash or trim in the chosen colour to differentiate the group whilst keeping costs down?

I'm genuinely intrigued to know what you ladies think about the phenomenon - look forward to your comments...

Gilly

Chelsea / Army

2006-12-29T03:06:00.000+02:00

Ben Sahar, at an age where most of his friends are studying for their bagruyot (high school matriculation exams) is on the verge of a breakthrough into one of the richest football teams in the world. He has already been banging in goals for Chelsea's reserve and U21 team and looks set to make his first team debut fairly soon. Fame, glory and considerable wealth await him in the English Premier League.

On his last visit to Israel however, Ben received a similar letter to that which all his friends received, requesting that he report to the army to commence the tests which would culminate in his serving 3 years in uniform. Although the army tends to put talented athletes in facilities where they can train, his manager at Chelsea, Jose Mourinho, could not have been best pleased at this state of affairs (which many would argue is a good thing)

The Guardian, reports that in Israel "sportsmen who refuse to fulfil their national service are prohibited from representing their country in national teams". If correct, this statement itself raises an interesting discussion, namely that Arab players such as Walid Badeer, who are not called up to serve can represent the Jewish State, whilst Jewish players, called up to serve but who do not want to, cannot.

In the past, this would have left Sahar with two options; either to serve and to put his career on hold (as did Yossi Benayoun and Eyal Berkowitz) or to stay put in England - in other words, desert from the army which would have meant not returning to Israel other than to serve jail time. The former option is to his detriment although Benayoun and Berkowitz are decent players, neither has played for a top side (only 2 Israeli players have). Chelsea attract the top talent in the world and to make the breakthrough to play alongside them must mean that Sahar is an outstanding talent - to put the brakes on his career would be bad both for him and for the national team. The other option would also be bad for the national team - he'd never play for them.

And so a third option has been found; MK Haim Katz (Likud) is proposing a bill which would allow him to "serve" in the Israeli Embassy in London whilst continuing his football career, and still being eligible for the national team. I for one, would not be surprised if our football loving PM called for coalition discipline and the bill were to pass into law.

This would seem to me to be an interesting but possibly dangerous precedent. Certainly, it's the case that the army already does make allowances for certain talents; those who are academic overachievers can study at University before joining up and can serve in their field and musicians can continue to develop their careers (albeit with limitations) in an entertainment troupe. In both cases however their is still time spent in uniform, directly serving the country. Whilst I would agree with Sahar's mother's to an extent that he will be an Ambassador on the pitch, it is difficult to quantify this contribution. How far would this idea be stretched? To any sport or only those which Israel deems important? And what about those who are talented in the arts?

Having grown up in England, I can testify to the importance of success in sport for unifying a nation. When England has performed well; in the World Cup of 1990, the Europeans in 1996 and the previous Ashes series, people have a pride in the nation and walk a little taller than normal - success internationally is important and if this step has the effect of strenghtening our sports teams then I believe that the idea will have served a good purpose, one which large numbers of Israelis will be supportive of - the idea of a deferment or ficitional service for the national good.

Just a shame it's Chelsea who'll benefit.

Gilly

The cost of addiction - an "only in Israel" post

2006-12-25T22:29:00.000+02:00

Mrs G and I have recently fallen for the charms of President Bartlett, CJ, Toby Ziegler, Josh Lyman and Leo McGarry and have been making our way through, season by season. I've actually learned a little about American politics from their antics but generally end up admiring them for being very clever and witty. The DVD store next to our local supermarket (about which I have a post in progress) has most of the episodes so once or twice a week we'll drop off one disk and pick up the next. Missing episodes we pick up from a second store in the same chain which is pretty close to my office.

It was almost inevitable that with 2 stores in the picture and Mrs G picking up whilst I returned (or vice versa) our nightly viewing, that at some point a DVD would go back to the wrong place. In any normal country, you'd expect that a store receiving a DVD clearly marked as from another store in it's quick drop would call the other store to report that yet another dumbass customer has got confused, the first store would call the customer and that would be the end of it - right?

Wrong. In fact what happens is that the receiving store puts the DVD to one side without telling anyone. 3 weeks down the line, a computer automatically generates a "Friendly reminder" postcard which is mailed to the customer informing him that the disk is overdue. The customer then has to make several phonecalls to ascertain the location of the disk, go to pick it up from one store, take it to the next store to be told that he has to speak to the manager who will only be in next day, come back the next day to find that not only is the manager not in at 11:00 as he was promised but that the shop only opens at 12:00 because it's Xmas but that the manager wasn't needed in any case to cancel part of the charge, leaving a smaller sum but still more than it would have been if the first shop had called through straight away.

Breathless pause.....

Now I'm supposed to shake my head and say "only in Israel" except I'm not in Israel, I'm in America where the service culture is supposed to be so wonderful. So the moral of the story is that these tiny services screw ups occur all over the place and that so far I've been disappointed my American banks, cellphone companies, the licensing authority and now video stores. Just as when I was a new arrival in Israel I find that the appropriate response is to vent to no-one in particular, smile and get on with it.

Gilly

Fa La La La La La La La La

2006-12-24T06:17:00.000+02:00

It's my first Xmas in more than a decade. Coming from a country where the day can go by with scarcely a mention on the news, I'm currently surrounded by the signs of the festival; peace and goodwill to all men, carollers and rampany commercialism.

Driving home from work in the evenings, I pass house after house with their lawns lit up with nativities, nodding raindeer, trees and all other possible imagery that can be manufactured and sold in bulk - the electricity bill alone for all of these houses must be incredible, to say nothing of the cost of buying all the installations to outdo the neighbours.

Shops are festooned with red and green, "holiday" greetings, trees, wreaths and ornaments and parents trying desperately to find a PS3 or Wii before the 25th. The media is flooded with advice on how to deal with the family and how to plan (starting 3 weeks in advance) for cooking a meal for 10(!) people.

It's when I look around at all these outward symbols of a non-Jewish festival, albeit one that has been perverted to microwave turkey meals, arguing with the inlaws, watching the game and presents, that I really miss home more than ever. As a Jew, I consider myself to be privileged; our holidays have not been hijacked in the same way - they still have meaning. We place an incredible, wonderful value on family being together and have a tremendous tradition of Hachnasat Orchim which seems fairly alien to the world in which I'm temporarily based, no matter how large a smile the checkout girl gives when wishing me a "nice day". Most importantly, it's only in our country that we aren't surrounded by someone else's symbols - it's the only way to truly live a complete Jewish life style; personal, communal and national.

Shavua Tov

Gilly

Lighting a candle for the kidnapped soldiers

2006-12-21T19:16:00.000+02:00

"Since the abduction of IDF soldiers Gilad Shalit, Ehud Goldwasser and Eldad Regev more than five months ago, the citizens of Israel and pro-Israel communities around the world have been praying for their wellbeing. This Hanukkah - the holiday of lights – Ynetnews, in coordination with the Jewish Agency and the World Zionist Organization, invite you to light a Hanukkah candle in their honor.

As individuals our light is weak, but together we will shine brightly and light a huge flame to express our common concern and hope that Gilad, Ehud and Eldad return safely home."

To add your name to the tens of thousands who have already lit a candle click here.

Remembering

2006-12-20T21:52:00.001+02:00

Moss grows fat on a rolling stone...

David Duke on Zionism

2006-12-14T16:27:00.000+02:00

This video, of Wolf Blitzer interviewing former Klansman David Duke, who has most recently been participating in the "Holocaust conference" (which is all about freedom of speech) in Tehran, demonstrates just how delusional people can be.

The war in Iraq is being fought for Israel's interest, Ahmadinejad has never called for the destruction of Israel and David Irving should not be in prison for Holocaust denial. Jews control the media and Blitzer himself is an Israeli agent.

About 8 minutes long - take a look.

Gilly

IDF - brothers in arms video

2006-12-12T19:03:00.000+02:00

I was sent this video about the IDF by a friend and found it very touching - thought I'd pass it on.

Gilly

The Aroma of Coffee

2006-12-10T18:44:00.000+02:00

This article about where to go for coffee in Jerusalem on Ynet made me feel rather home sick. Some of the older places that it mentions tend to get overlooked for the flash of the new. Duvshanit always takes me back a few years with it's old fashioned (and delicious) cakes. They may not know from skinny, soy, fat-free, pumpkin spiced lattes but for a nostalgia trip you can't beat them.

My personal favourite place to go for coffee is Cafe Kalo which gets a good mention in the article. Situated on Derech Beit Lechem, close to our apartment, it's a favourite when we have the time to go for brunch on a Friday. When Mrs G senior is visiting we also tend to gravitate towards it and Mr Gilly Junior and his missus have adopted it enthusiastically. Sandwiches and salads named after local streets and imaginative breakfasts in particular, together with it's collection of mismatched furniture make it worth a look.

Derech Beit Lechem has plenty of enthusiasts - it even has a Facebook group dedicated to it. Whether you want to sit out in the garden at Cafe BeGina, enjoy homecooking Moroccan style at Rachel's Sandwich bar or go for the old staple Felafel at Ovadia (and various other options inbetween) it can't be beaten.

Missing home!

Gilly

Extremism

2006-11-28T18:17:00.000+02:00

If you have 40 minutes and want to watch something a little more interesting than the Cricket (or if you are at a lost over what to do during the break for lunch, this video on Youtube is an incredible expose of Islamic extremism by Glenn Beck, a well known TV pundit in the States who is famous for speaking his mind.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PWIK8YTZS8

Gilly

Sweet smelling babies

2006-11-28T11:49:00.000+02:00

Yesterday we were at a brit; it bore a marked resemblance to any other brit I'd been to in the last 5 years - even the breakfast, whilst not Holy Bagel was still incredibly familiar. What struck me as being strange was the name of the baby; Mitchell or Mitch as he will no doubt be known, is a perfectly respectable albeit slightly old-fashioned (to my mind anyway) name to give a baby - but it's completely out of sync with the names that I have become used to.

Jeremy, Oliver, Steven, Richard, Robert, Peter and Neil. Louise and Victoria, Melanie, Sharon, Joanna and Amanda: these are the names of my generation. A Gidon was a rarity; the old stand bys of David, Daniel and Jonathan (but never Yonatan) were about as Jewish as it got. This was perhaps and era of conformity, of not wishing to stick out from the crowd - perhaps lacking in Jewish pride somewhat - odd for a group of children born post 6 day war but there you have it.

Mitch's generation has proved very different with a return to names which are not just Jewish, but often Israeli in their nature; Arieh, Noa, Yael, Tali, Atara and Keren have become far more common amongst my overseas friends, replacing the more conservative names of the past - in Israel the trend amongst Anglo Olim is stronger still - trying to be more Israeli than the Sabras perhaps.

Meanwhile, the native born Israelis have also changed their naming habits - they too have moved away from the traditional biblical and founders names and tend towards more international sounding names such as Gai, Ro'i and Gal. It has become impossible to tell by the name of a child whether it is a boy or girl - thank goodness that old style colour codes can still be relied on - Daniel in blue and Danielle in pink are pronounced exactly the same. But still, in general, the names maintain a certain intrinsic Israeliness no matter how MTV they try to be.

Little Mitch is therefore something of a curiosity amongst my friends in this day and age. A beautiful child with a name that points back to a different era - but then retro is always in.

Gilly

The French on the defensive

2006-11-23T04:19:00.000+02:00

French troops in Lebanon have permission to shoot at Israeli planes if they feel threatened according to the JPost. An officer is quoted as saying:

"The orders that the [French] soldiers have is that their weapons are for self-defense and if a commander will feel threatened, as it was about to happen on the 31st of October, he would have the right to use force."

Surely if they feel threatened the appropriate thing to do would be the tried and trusted French tactic of raising a white flag?

Gilly

Inspiration from a familiar source

2006-11-19T06:14:00.000+02:00

This week, Mrs G and I hit a milestone - 2 years of marriage have gone by in a whirlwind - it's hard to believe that it's been so long already.

One of the most obvious differences between Israel and DC is that we can't walk out of our front door to a choice of top notch kosher restaurants in a 5 minute radius. DC does have some fairly good eateries (including a drive-thru kosher Krispy Kreme - Mmmm!) but the conventional wisdom around the city is that you have to head to Baltimore (a 45 minute drive away) in order to really have a good meal.

True to form, Mrs G managed to locate the most exclusive place in town for our anniversary, found the menu to her liking and booked a table for two. I also liked the content of the menu, if not the prices, but a generous gift from my in-laws meant that we could splurge and not have to worry too much.

When I mentioned that I enjoyed food, quite a few of the locals had mentioned this establishment in hushed tones, and I was looking forward to giving it a shot. Its diverse and imaginative menu gave me pause for thought upon ordering and the extremely polite young waiter seemed very knowledgeable in recommending the various types of steaks (after we made it clear that we weren't interested in the fish specials). Ordering my sweetbreads I was salivating at the thought of my last outing at Gabriel's and hoping that I'd be similarly impressed.

During the short wait until our starters were ready, we cast our eyes over the slightly dated decor - very different to the ultra-trendy dark wood and steel which we are used to. The space there is however large enough to allow for not having to worry about knocking into the next table upon getting up to wash - a distance which was to be to our advantage as had we been forced to listen to any more than the occasionally louder snatches of gossip emanating from the party of married, expensive-sheitel-bought-by-their-mother-in-laws, shopping, exercise and children obsessed women on the next table, it would have certainly spoiled our evening.

The first courses were somewhat disappointing; the heavy sauce on the sweetbreads pretty much killed off their flavour and no matter how fancy a name you give the smoked salmon it still looks odd on a bed of canned sweet corn kernels. I did have high hopes for the main course however - the note at the bottom of the menu that they "are not responsible for well-done steaks" suggesting that the chefs know what they are doing.

The offering that emerged from the kitchen was an impressive looking 24 ounces of meat on the bone draped langurously over a plate which was also loaded down with chips and cooked vegetables. Presentation would have been better either on a larger plate or with smaller portions of the latter which, with a steak that size are clearly going to be pretty much overlooked. The steak was well cooked - a little bit too well cooked than the medium rare that I had requested but delicious nonetheless. Mrs G's Lady Steak was as rare as she loves (were raw to be an option she wouldn't hesitate) and though it appeared that she was struggling, she got her second wind and did it justice.

Dessert was out of the question - we were both well stuffed so we asked for the bill. Thanks to my very favourite waiter, I was aware that tipping rates in the US are a little higher than Israel!

So how does it stack up to what we have in Jerusalem? Despite being a good effort, I can think of at least half a dozen places in Jerusalem off the top of my head which can wipe the floor with The Brasserie at 1/2 - 2/3 the price. If I thought for 30 seconds I could probably come up with another half dozen. That's not to say that The Brasserie is bad; rather that Jerusalem has undergone a renaissance in the last few years. Gone are the days when you were limited to El Gaucho and Norman's. Increased competition has led to higher standards so that Eluna.com is inundated with a wealth of possibilities - reason enough to make Aliyah I think. The wonderful Baltimore Jewish community can't sustain a wide variety of kosher eateries in the same way as Jerusalem.

Were it in Israel, I wouldn't make a trip from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv for La Brasserie and if Eli's steaks turn out to be comparable we won't be going back in a hurry. Nevertheless, we'll give them a B for effort, for the varied menu and for the attentive service.

Gilly

Iranian Missiles

2006-11-03T04:21:00.000+02:00

The Daily Telegraph reports on Iranians testing missiles which could hit Tel Aviv with a map showing other types of missiles which can hit France which given the FSU's willingness to keep supplying Iran with missiles and nuclear know how, should mean that being able to launch nukes at any target in Europe should be well within their reach in the near future unless either the US or the UK have the balls to do something about it (coz no-one else does) or maybe we'll pull another strike a la Osirak out of our hat.

Maybe the French can arrange a piece of paper promising peace in our type?

The world is collectively burying it's head in the sand, hoping that the nasty mad man with the nukes will go away. Once again, evil rears it's head, the Jewish people are at the forefront and the nations of the world cower.

Is World War III around the corner? I fear it may be.

Shabbat Shalom,

Gilly

Getting to know you

2006-10-31T05:47:00.000+02:00

I've always contended that the best way to get to know a new place is by taking a rough heading and going for a wander, map in your pocket so that you can locate yourself if you're really lost. Mrs G and I headed for the center of town on Washington's very clean but rather murky (think industrial Bat-cave) Metro system.

We jumped off at Adams Morgan which I'm told is funky at night but wasn't up to much at 11:00 on Sunday morning (although we could have been in the wrong part of it) - we headed down in the direction of Dupont Circle with lots of fun and funky stores; in particular, exactly the sort of book stores that we both love and could spend lots of money in if we had lots of money. We restrained ourselves and headed on, passing in blissful ignorance within sniffing distance of a kosher Krispy Kreme (think Dunkin Donuts only considerably yummier - probably full of fat Jewish policeman.

Next destination was Georgetown - Olde World, small stores; nothing like the strip malls of Rockville and lots of stuff which we want but will have to wait (with th exception of some lush stuff for Mrs G.) We cut down to the waterfront, straight into a free headlining grabbing concert performance in front of a building that looked like an up market IKEA and turned out to be the new Swedish Embassy.

Back up towards town, we found ourselves wandering past a landmark building - the Watergate Hotel and headed for the Metro. At this point, I looked up and commented "Ooh look, it's the needle thing" - Mrs. G. took umbrage at the perceived sleight to the Washington Monument and off we headed to inspect from close up - a walk of a further couple of miles to round the day off.

I must admit that it's an impressive piece, even from a distance, situated on a slight rise with no other buildings close by it's Washington's tallest building and will remain so due to city rules on building heights.

The city has plenty more to offer - we're saving the many free museums for wet Sundays as winter comes on - in the meantime, we're still enjoying some stunning weather.

Gilly

Dealing with Shvizut Yom Aleph

2006-10-29T05:33:00.000+02:00

I sleep badly on Saturday nights. It takes me ages to drop off. Generally this is a result of my sleeping well on Shabbat afternoon. Despite all my best intentions, I generally find myself "resting my eyes" after a hearty lunch - I think it's something they put in the Cholent because it doesn't happen at any other time.

Sunday mornings therefore, usually see me tired and cranky when on my way to work - the concept of Shvizut Yom Aleph, is one that most Israelis get used to when they're in the army, returning to the base after a short break away being pampered at home. "Shvizut" is army slang which I'm going to translate as "knackered" (but is probably best not used in polite company) - the phrase basically sums up the fact that you'd rather be tucked up in a warm bed rather than on your way back to being shouted at by Mefakdim. Of course it translates into real life quite well - an equivalent to "I don't like Mondays" (which also involved picking up a gun).

One of the most marvellous things about Shlichut so far has been reclaiming Sundays. Dozing until the clock is into double figures, then getting up for lazy bagels and coffee before thinking about what to do in the afternoon - it never used to be an issue before Aliyah but Premier League coverage is non-existent in the US and the time difference would conflict with the slumbering bit.

I have always been a staunch defender of Israel's version of the 5 day week but since returning to the working on Friday / resting on Sunday format, I am a reformed character - preparing for Shabbat is being left in the non-working hands of Mrs G for the timebeing but once she's working we'll have to prepare in advance but I reckon it's worth it. I can have my Shabbat sleep and still get a decent night's shut eye thanks to Sundays - getting to work refreshed on Monday morning.

But I'd trade it in a moment to be in Jerusalem....

Gilly

Embassy World....

2006-10-06T16:21:00.000+02:00

An armed Muslim Police Officer has been excused duty guarding the Israeli Embassy in London, provoking a furore in the press and questions as to how it can be the case that an officer chooses what duties he does and does not perform.

Is it just me or does keeping any armed Muslims, Police or otherwise away from the Israeli Embassy seem to be a sensible policy which you'd expect to be pursued?

Gilly

Driving Uncle Sam

2006-10-01T03:58:00.000+02:00

Dealing with bureaucracy is an essential part of the life of any new Oleh but with the passage of time your memories become blurred somewhat. Mine have been re-awakened by my American experience - the latest episode is sorting out my State of Maryland Driving License.

New arrivals are allowed to use their out-of-state licenses for 60 days (in Israel it's a whole year) and during that time must sort out a Maryland license - if I were to move to Virginia next year, I'd have to get a Virginia license and the process would be different - just one result of the odd American system of different rules once you cross the State boundary.

I duly made a pilgrimage to the local licensing office - only accessible by car so the unlicensed must find a lift from somewhere. After waiting 2 1/2 hours, the very pleasant clerk explained that I was missing documents; 2 proofs of residency and a 3 hour drug and alcohol awareness session - the latter turned out to be the most hilarious part of the process, the instructor starting off by declaring "this mandatory 3 hour session will take about 1 1/4 hours".

Having sorted out the relevant documents, I returned to the centre, 1/2 an hour before opening time only to be told that all the available spots had been taken for that day and that they were changing to a new appointment only system for the following day. I was handed an explanatory sheet which specified that a person with a visa and I94 (which I have) did not need an appointment - the clerk rudely insisted that I still needed an appointment.

So I spent the next few days trying to get through to the constantly engaged number. When I finally got through the first time I was kicked out of the system. When I finally managed to speak to a human being I was straight away asked if I had an I94 - when I answered in the affirmative she confirmed that I didn't require an appointment! I insisted on making one anyhow - a whole month distant. Just like our very own Misrad Hapnim!!

Friday morning, I went along bright and early and the whole approach was somehow different - after waiting for 1/2 hour, my turn came up; I had all my documents which were reviewed and scanned - a process which itself took 45 minutes. My eyesight was checked and I was photographed. I was then directed to do the law test which I barely scraped through and then sent on to do the practical - all in the same complex. Anyone who has done the Israeli test knows what a joke that is - this was even more so in that it's not done on the road but a special course. I tend to think that testing people in real conditions, Israeli and British style is more logical but I wasn't going to argue.

After aceing the test I then had to go back to more queueing to pay the fee for my license and arrange to get it delivered.

So after initial trouble how to sum it up? Bureaucracies are the same everywhere and clerks are always open to giving incorrect information. In comparison to the Memsi, Eye and (joke) medical check up, Licensing Authority, Driving Instructor, test, Licensing Authority, Post Office to pay route in Israel, the all under one roof (apart from (joke) drug and alcohol session) approach is something that is far more user friendly albeit somewhat dragged out.

Driving in the US is different because:

Turn right on red: - a red light doesn't always mean stop..... (but it does in New York)
Four way stops: - the first car to reach the stop sign at a crossroads has right of way. Like that could happen in Jerusalem....
Horns: - used infrequently (if at all). No audible warnings when the lights change.....
Street lighting: - surprisingly poor and largely non-existent on motorways - I know it's a big country but on well used roads bad lighting can't be good for road safety
Passing: - in Maryland it's legal to pass on either side - seeing as everyone does it in Israel it might make sense to simpy change the law?
Plentiful parking: - Tel Aviv it's not....

Gmar Chatima Tova

Gilly

Building on success

2006-09-29T01:48:00.000+03:00

Liverpool received a crucial 9 million pound grant today in order to go ahead with the building of their new 60,000 seater stadium.

According to The Guardian, the new temple to the beautiful game will be built on a patch of land that is currently a car park which will, in years to come allow Liverpool to boast that they "paved a parking lot, put up a paradise".......

Gilly

update: got a letter printed in Guardian's Fiver with this poor gag - couldn't be prouder!!

update 2: from the following day "Gil Ben Mori's 'paved a parking lot, put up a paradise' comment (Friday's Fiver letters) was bordering on genius. Who did he steal it from?" - David B. - Thank you David - are you of the tribe?

Papal Perplexities

2006-09-17T19:46:00.000+03:00

If someone were to call you "violent" and your reaction was to punch him in the face, it would be fair to conclude that, not only did your accuser have a fair argument, but also that you'd condemned yourself by your own actions.

The Pope's recent speech, in which he quoted a 14th Century Byzantine Emperor (full quote here) suggesting that spreading faith through violence is unreasonable, has been misinterpreted as the Pope himself being critical of Islam and has led to a familiar rash of violence; churches being burned and death threats.

Let's be clear here - the Pope hasn't called the religion itself "Evil", in fact his purpose was quite the opposite - to call for dialogue. The response however has (yet again) showed the evil nature of the religion in a manner that is only too clear - the ones that are not merely calling the religion "evil" but actually showing it to be, are those who burn places of worship and threaten peoples' lives (and take them) in the name of Allah.

It seems that in the 7 centuries since the quote was originally made, there are those who have not advanced one inch from old ingrained attitudes; any disagreement is still met with violence. Once again the Imams and Ayatollahs are shamed by their silence: no condemnation of the violence has been issued by a religious leader of note - they're too busy fanning the flames.

The Pope can back down on this issue if he would like to; the Leaders of the West may well make comments containing terms like "ill advised" or "misguided" (although Chancellor Merkel has leapt to his defence) but they should also take note; there is only so long that they will be able to rely on a policy of apologising and hoping that the menace will go away. George Bush knows it, Tony Blair knows it and Israel certainly knows it - how long before the rest of the world wakes up?

Gilly

You be the judge (and jury)

2006-09-12T07:05:00.000+03:00

I'd like to suggest that the following two definitions, one directly taken from the US Constitution, the other a more general definition are fairly clear and unambiguous:

"Treason against the United States, shall consist only in levying War against them, or in adhering to their Enemies, giving them Aid and Comfort. No Person shall be convicted of Treason unless on the Testimony of two Witnesses to the same overt Act, or on Confession in open Court."

US Constitution, Article III

"Treason: Violation of allegiance toward one's country or sovereign, especially the betrayal of one's country by waging war against it or by consciously and purposely acting to aid its enemies."

Wikipedia

Just so that it's 100% clear, I'll tell you that my understanding is that a person who acts to aid a country's enemies has committed the act of treason; a crime which was (theoretically) punishable by death in the UK until 1998; by contrast, murder ceased to be punishable by death in 1969. This, I am sure you will agree, makes it a fairly serious crime.

It is within this context that I'd like to draw your attention to the following:

Arab MK joins Hamas defense team: MK Talab El-Sana, head of the United Arab List - Ta'al party, has joined the legal team defending members of Hamas arrested by Israel because they are currently part of a Government which is actively bombing Israel.

2 Arab MKs visit Damascus: MKs Jamal Zahalka and Wasil Taha, together with two other former MKS visited the Syrian capital. The visit had been planned for 2 months previously but had been postponed due to the war in Lebanon, being fought by Syria / Iran's proxy; Hezbollah.

Now surely I can't be the only one out there who sees a close resemblance between the acts of these scum who sit in our Knesset and the definition of treason. Purely and simply, this is abuse of the state, a clear act of treason and they should be put on trial, jailed and the key thrown away - and they should thank their lucky stars that Israel doesn't use the death penalty.

Gilly

Fear of flying

2006-09-08T06:51:00.000+03:00

Anyone who has ever flown to or from Israel is familiar with the sight of a minyan of men forming up, usually at the back of the plane, to say whichever prayer co-incides with the flight. Many of those of us who frequent such minyanim will have been shocked by the widely reported news that a Chasid was removed from a flight for praying in his seat as the flight was about to take off. Not getting in anyone's way, not making a noise even - just shockling back and forth in his seat a little.

Now I must admit that I've said a few prayers whilst flying - particularly when we've hit bad turbulence - most flyers would, I think, admit to saying a silent thanks upon landing safely at the far end after a bumpy ride - I certainly won't be in future, knowing it could get me kicked off the plane.

I think that that this could be setting a rather dangerous precedent if people are going to be thrown off a flight every time another passenger reports that a person on the flight is making them nervous. I for example, am made nervous any time I see a young Muslim man on an airplane; knowing that the majority of hijackings have involved this demographic, I think that I this is perfectly rational - so do I report my concerns? If I were to get on a plane wearing a kippa and find myself sitting in front of a crowd of tatooed, National Front supporting skinheads, I'd certainly be nervous but they might equally report a sudden, atypical case of nerves in order to spite me and have me removed from a flight.

Where does it end? The possibilities for madness are fairly clear - it certainly doesn't appear that this guy was doing anything threatening, bothersome or even out of the ordinary - merely sitting in his seat. A simple solution presents itself in order to prevent possible (even likely) abuses of the precedent. You feel nervous about someone without being able to provide a valid reason? Fine. Seeing as the airline's security checks have not turned anything up, we'll be happy to remove you from the flight and you can pay for a new ticket on a flight which you'll be comfortable with. Then we'll see how nervous they really are.

Gilly

A legal alien

2006-08-29T02:03:00.000+03:00

Today I went to an office, grabbed a number from a morose official and sat in an uncomfortable chair waiting for my turn. After a surprisingly short wait, my number was called and I found myself opposite a clerk, whose accent revealed that he was also a relative newcomer. After spending 10 minutes looking over my documents I was told that despite the fact that I hadn't waiting long enough since my arrival, they would probably send me the important number, without which I can't sort out a phone line and driving license "within 2 months".

I know you're thinking Misrad Hapnim but you're wrong - I'm in the US remember - that's the social security office in Rockville - but it just goes to show that we don't do things too differently (although an Oleh will usually walk out on the same day with a Teudat Zehut).

Last week I walked into the Verizon store to see about getting a mobile phone - how difficult could that be? Plenty of tourists buy them in Israel without a problem so why should here be any different? After a chat with the salesman during which I persuaded him that I didn't need a phone that gave me directions, played music, played games and made the tea, we finally found what I wanted in a corner of the store, hiding amongst the motorola sliders and flippers which our American cousins seems to love; a simple, beautiful Nokia. The price was reasonable and we went back to the counter to arrange the deal - and then came a catch (not THE catch - I hadn't been expecting one - a catch) - my lack of a social security number (2 months - see above if you skipped) and credit rating (another new concept) meant that I had to leave a deposit of $400 per phone. Ouch!!

I've concluded so far that the immigrant experience is never 100% straightforward, generally expensive and somewhat frustrating and needs to be approached with a full wallet and a sense of humour. I came to a similar conclusion when I made Aliyah in '96 and have been dispensing the same advice to Olim for a long time - so far everything is going great - I've got a bank account sorted which I opened with a Jordanian teller and we have an apartment with no furniture which I'll be moving into on Thursday.

Stay tuned!

Gilly

Feelings of guilt

2006-08-10T01:56:00.000+03:00

This evening, after several attempts, we finally managed to speak with Mrs G's younger brother who is currently serving his compulsory service in a commando unit. He couldn’t really tell us much other than that he’s about 500 meters from the Lebanese border and that after a week and a half of battle rations, he had finally got his hands on a hamburger donated by the local kosher McDonalds today.

Mrs G’s twin brother, who was released from a different commando unit after 3 years of service in March, only to be called back with a Tzav 8 emergency call up, is spending the night in Jenin, where his unit will most probably be putting themselves in harms way, rounding up Hamas operatives.

Meanwhile, Mrs G and I spent this evening at a restaurant on Emek Refaim Street, with my cousins from England where I enjoyed an excellent rare entrecote and a decent Merlot.

Last week, D and A, received call up notices. Monday nights usually see them playing soccer with us in Jerusalem; this week, whilst we were chasing a ball round the field, they were both somewhere in Lebanon.

On Sunday, whilst Mrs G and I wandered around the Boboli Gardens in Florence, Italy on the last day of a long awaited holiday, an old acquaintance from my time on Kibbutz, took a few steps aside from his vehicle to light a cigarette. His nicotine addiction saved his life; seconds later a Katyusha landed where he had been sitting, killing 12 of his comrades.

Living in Israel can frequently be a somewhat surreal experience; in the decade since I made Aliyah from England, there really hasn’t ever been a prolonged period of complete quiet but this last month has been the most difficult to deal with for me; whilst a good proportion of our population is hunkering down in their bunkers, tourists in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem could easily be forgiven for thinking that nothing unusual was going on; we may dig deep to send packages to our soldiers and the residents of the North, listen to the news with a greater frequency and our phone bills may record a few more calls to family and friends with an 04 area code than usual, but otherwise anyone to the south of an imaginary line is getting up to go to work, doing brunch and sitting on the beach in the same way as they have always done.

Last time around it was far easier for me – Friday March 29^th 2002, the day after the Park Hotel in Netanya was bombed, I was amongst the thousands who received an emergency call up. I was amongst those who went into the Arab West Bank towns, spending most of April in and around Bethlehem. Having an immediate purpose in the time of crisis made life very simple. This time round I’m watching helplessly from the rear, praying hard and tuning in every hour on the hour in the hope that the top item will start with a story of containing the word “Ptzu’im” – wounded, rather than “Harugim” – dead.

My feeling of impotence is only emphasized by the fact that in a week and a half I’ll be leaving to take up my new post as Aliyah Shaliach in the States, leaving behind my responsibility for defending the country; every year since I completed my army service in 1998 I’ve been called up for at least one period of Miluim – Reserve Duty. Every time, I’ve faithfully answered the call yet here I find myself leaving the country at a time where I’m needed the most and feeling incredibly torn in doing so. Make no mistake – I, along with all of the others who have been called up, do not wish to have to serve, but when the need arises I certainly wish to take responsibility and fulfill my duty.

I comfort myself in the knowledge that I’m leaving to fulfill a mission of national importance. As an Aliyah Shaliach, I shall be promoting and assisting people in making Aliyah; I was recently privileged to represent the Jewish Agency for Israel on a flight arranged by Nefesh B’Nefesh which brought 230 North American Olim to Israel in the middle of the current conflict and am convinced that the resolution of these and the thousands of other Olim who are making the move this summer in spite of the fighting sends a very clear message to our enemies.

We have been targeted simply for being Jews for Millennia; the subject of pogroms, blood libels, expulsions and the Holocaust. Now, living in an era where we have our own State, we are able to defend ourselves against those who would destroy us.

Our complete withdrawal from the Gaza Strip last summer has not produced the results that we had hoped for but rather those that the doom-sayers warned of, with Shderot and Ashkelon finding themselves the targets of Hamas terrorists armed with Kassam rockets.

The abrogation of responsibility on behalf of the Lebanese Government in letting a terrorist regime, armed by Iran and Syria take over the South of their country, has left Israel with no option but to defend her civilians in the North. It is very clear where the blame lies despite the attempts of a biased media to hold Israel responsible. The IDF is once again able to hold its head up high as an army for whom the protection of the innocent is a supreme value.

As a Shaliach I have a mission to strengthen Israel, whether through sending people on programs or helping them prepare for Aliyah, standing up and speaking our on the campuses and helping others to do likewise, it is clear to me that I will be doing my duty – but in a different arena and without a uniform. Living in Israel can be hard but I have the feeling that my period of Shlichut, watching from the outside will be harder still – I hope that I will be able to rise to the call of my duty.

Gilly

In a belligerent mood

2006-07-13T17:04:00.000+03:00

The French are pissing me off again. Not an unusual statement from someone who was born and brought up in the UK and has lived in Israel for a decade; it's almost inevitable that I'll have my nose put out of joint by something that M. Chirac or one of his cronies comes out with. It has come as little surprise that whilst Israelis are sitting in their bomb shelters, with 1 dead and 70 wounded in the barrage as well as 8 dead soldiers and 2 more kidnapped, the French Foreign Minister has actually had the gall to condemn Israel for responding in what he termed "a disproportionate act of war".

Whilst it's possible to understand this attitude within the context that the idea of responding to an attack on your country hasn't been a part of French military doctrine for close to a century, it would seem rational to me (even President Bush agrees with me) that if you come under attack you have the right to defend yourself.

The Russians have also taken the high moral ground and weighed in with their thoughts:

"The continued destruction of civilian infrastructure in Lebanon and the Palestinian territories and the disproportionate use of force by Israel, which causes suffering to the civilian population, can be neither understood nor justified,"

With a few changes that sentence becomes:

"The destruction of civilian infrastructure in Chechnya and the disproportionate use of force by Russia, which caused 200,000 civilian deaths, can be neither understood nor justified"

Get your own house in order before you start making your opinions known.

The EU are at it too. Israel's now been condemned by the Finns.

It seems fairly clear that there is a simple solution to the French Defence Minister's helpful comment that

"we must move towards a dialogue, recognising each other and permitting the civilian population to live in peace"

I'm not altogether convinced that we need a dialogue at all though it certainly won't do any harm - I'll couch it in simple terms for the Lebanese, Syrians and French: if you don't give us a reason to shoot at you, we won't shoot at you.

In a little more detail - if you allow a militia (which also happens to have a Minister in your Government) to operate freely out of your sovereign territory then you are going to bear the consequences of their actions. If you are the country supplying them with weapons you should be worried too. No one (on this side) wants to be in a state of conflict - but we will defend ourselves and punish those who are party to attacks on our State. If Lebanon is indeed "a friend of France" then the French should be having a friendly word in their ear - suggesting that kicking Hezbollah out would be no great loss and would enhance the chances of a lasting peace in the region.

Gilly

Reflections on a decade....

2006-07-11T19:05:00.000+03:00

10 years ago today I arrived at Ben Gurion airport with 55 kilos of luggage and a badge, worn rather sheepishly saying "I've come home". My first steps in Israel as a new Oleh were taken in the company of 4 other Brits and a BOS rep in the direction of Misrad Haklita in the old terminal at the Airport and from then on to my relatives. Since 11/7/96, a lot has changed; only Misrad Haklita remains the same (I was there last week - trust me!)

Today I sat with a bunch of extremely talented, dedicated Israelis who, like me are shortly going to be packing up their families and homes and going to represent the Jewish Agency Aliyah Dept all over the world. I found it to be an extremely emotional closing of a circle; I'm going on Shlichut for the same reasons that I made Aliyah - because I believe that Israel is the correct place for Jews to be living in. My hope is that I will be able to bring a little bit of Israel to a lot of people; to encourage them, firstly to visit to strenghthen their Jewish identity and connection with Israel - and if they join the thousands of people who make Aliyah out of choice every year then all the better.

I hope that the decade of experience that I have had in becoming absorbed into Israeli society will stand me in good stead in advising, guiding and encouraging the people who I'll be meeting during the course of my shlichut, so that they can make Aliyah well prepared for dealing with the move. We live in a wonderful country but it certainly has more than its fair share of challenges and, even if there are certain stumbling blocks that can't be removed, I will be trying to make sure that "my" Olim will not be feeling their way blindly.

To my mind, the best advertisement for Aliyah, is not the variety of attractive posters, DVDs, websites and booklets that you'll find published by the Jewish Agency, AACI, Misrad Haklita and Nefesh B'Nefesh, but the wonderful people who have themselves made Aliyah - my wife and I are both good examples - if you're reading this then the chances are that so are you - I'd love to be able to add you to the circle of contacts who I can offer to Olim to help in their Klita both professionally and socially - drop me a line and let me know who yu are if you're happy to help.....

Gilly

Not cool enough...

2006-06-22T22:52:00.001+03:00

Having spent every evening of the last couple of weeks sat in front of the TV watching the World Cup, I certainly owed the extremely patient Mrs G a little quality time. Always fans of trying new places to eat and not having gone out for a meal for quite a while, we decided to give the new and extremely-promising-looking Emek eatery, "Coolinary" a shot.

Situated next to Cafe Masaryk in a spot which used to be occupied by a hardware store, Coolinary has barely been open for a month. Whilst Caffit and Joy had their usual queues at the door (the latter not really deserved IMHO since the emphasis has switched to quantity of customers rather than quality of food), we were able to secure a table for two in the very funky looking new restaraunt without a wait. High backed leather seats, dark wood tables and fixtures and elegant cutlery decorate the high ceilinged but intimate space, which is completed by a wall-filling wine rack and cute little gallery. Clearly a lot of thought has been put into the surrounds and it's certainly been effective - it wouldn't be out of place in any big city and is consistent with the high standard that has been set by a growing list that includes Joy, Selina, Limonim, Lugar and Gabriel.

The menu is short but extremely imaginative. We opted to go straight for a main course but of the starters the chicken livers stir with strawberries, nana and vanilla vodka was clearly a stand out whilst the attractive selection of salads included one with a funky nut mixture and a very interesting sounding pair of chicken salads. We also passed on the trio of chips - celery root, sweet and regular potato.

Mrs G opted for the Liver trio - chicken, goose and veal livers, served on caramelised sweet potato discs with a forest fruit sauce. I decided against the safe option of Entrecote or Sirloin in an alcoholic marinade in favour of the more intriguing chicken breast stuffed with almonds and walnuts, served with Japanese and wild rice and a forest fruit sauce. A considerable portion of the menu is devoted to a very extensive wine list and although individual glasses were not featured, they obliged with a very acceptable Tavor Merlot when we asked. I ordered a draft La Chouffe - a Belgian beer similar in style to Leffe - the first time I've seen it on tap in Israel.

The portions were superbly presented but small and nothing particularly exceptional in comparison to some of the restaurants that I've mentioned in passing. The desserts; a battered and fried ice cream with caramelized nuts and a chocolate mousse, forest fruit (again), chocolate and nut confection were both excellent but a meat establishment will not be able to build a clientele based around dessert. With so much competition around, the standard has been raised to such an extent that in order to compete, a new kid on the block really needs to be exceptional. The imagination that has been put into the menu is let down by the very ordinary execution and the small portions - I was still hungry when we left.

My overall feeling is that the meal certainly did not represent value for money and that unless there is a marked improvement then Coolinary won't survive to see 2007. It's often the case that new places have teething problems but serving this type of food at these prices (both our main dishes were in the NIS 80 - 95 range) and with Jerusalem enjoying an embarrassment of riches in the meaty eateries department, it's hard to see them getting much repeat traffic unless they act fast.

The verdict - Gabriel is still the one to beat.

Coolinary, 31 Emek Refaim, 02-566-2671

Gilly

p.s. - I made it home in time to see Brazil thrash Japan!

Waiting on line

2006-06-18T10:41:00.000+03:00

It's been a while since I had to make the journey to Misrad Hapnim (the Interior Ministry), that most maligned (generally deservedly so) of Israeli ministries. My memories of its faded halls and rude clerks are doubtless romantic notions of times past but I couldn't help compare with an equivalent office which I visited on Friday morning.

In that I am going to be a Shaliach in the US, I need to arrange an appropriate visa. Friday morning therefore, found me queueing at the US Consulate in East Jerusalem (a couple of metres away from Route 1). To have got that far, I had registered on line (NIS 58), paid a SEVIS fee for a J1 visa ($100) and paid a further fee at the Post Office (NIS 460) - around a thousand sheks in total (my employers will return the money) - the Land of the Free is pretty expensive so it seems! I'd also registered to be there at a certain time and filled out all the forms online.

I was certainly more prepared than some of the others who, it seems, had not read the instructions properly and had to hurry off to print out sheets or pay at the Post Office on the instruction of 1 or other of the English, Hebrew and Arabic speaking staff who went up and down the line making sure that we had everything ready by the time we reached the window.

Having deposited my documents I was ushered inside to a security check where I handed in my tyre pump and bike lamps to a bemused guard as well as my mobile phone. I was then ushered through to a further security check and thence to a waiting room which hadn't changed too much since the 1940s. It was quiet, people waiting for their names to be called over the antiquated speaker system, Jews and Arabs studiously ignoring one another in the cramped space.

After an hour or so, my name was called, I had a 30 second chat with the clerk and was sent on my way - my passport should be ready in a week or so.

Despite the difference in the physical surroundings, the office felt totally different to Misrad Hapnim. The staff were more helpful and had appropriate language skills, no cell phones going off and hence a quieter atmosphere, a physical separation between the waiting area and the processing desks, the requirement of having all the documents ready. All things which I think many of our government offices could learn from in making the experience simpler for the people that they serve and hence themselves.

Waiting in Government offices is not a uniquely Israeli phenomenon - far from it. It is however often the first time that many Olim have to deal with bureaucratic processes and therefore seems all the more daunting. It may be better or worse in other places - the US Consulate I'd give a better grade than Pnim in Jerusalem but still not much fun - grin and bear it is the best advice that I can give.

Gilly

Faulty spin

2006-06-12T09:28:00.000+03:00

If you hired someone who subsequently made headlines for all the wrong reasons, it's fairly safe to suggest that you wouldn't make a great fanfare about the fact. You certainly would try to avoid having your good name linked with the person in the press and if the media were to make the connection, you'd probably play it down or refuse to comment.

The Jerusalem Post has chosen to do precisely the opposite in the case of Benjamin Bright- Fishbein, the American student who thought it would be a good idea (which ranks alongside this one) to grab a coffee in Nablus on Saturday. The not-so-Bright-Fishbein, seemingly unaware that the locals are not particularly fond of either Jews or Americans, was unsurprisingly (to everyone but himself) kidnapped at gunpoint and held for several hours whilst army units were held on high alert and the Shin Bet went into overdrive to arrange his eventual release - seemingly only due to the fact that he was the holder of an American passport.

Given that one assumes that the Post decides what it prints, it's decision to flaunt the fact that Bright-Fishbein "had spent the past month working as an intern" for them, with a front page, above the fold, headline - "Post intern released unharmed by Aksa Martyrs Brigades" and by acknowledging the fact with some pride on their website, seems to suggest that they are not bothered about the fact that they have someone who is guilty at best of gross stupidity on their staff. Although to regular readers maybe that's not news....

The World Cup Debacle

2006-06-07T09:38:00.000+03:00

Israel's World Cup debacle has made it as far as the UK's The Guardian newspaper.

Charlton, the company which has the World Cup rights in Israel is trying to make a killing by charging 492 Shekels (the figures quoted in the article are incorrect) to watch the world's most important sports competition which is free basically everywhere else in the world and has been in Israel up until now. The Israeli consumer doesn't like it and is letting Charlton, part owned by sports agent extraordinaire Pini Zahavi, know what he thinks by keeping his wallet in his pocket. The price has just been reduced to 308 shekels as, instead of having their predicted 150,000 customers signed up, as of last week the number was 1700.

The Guardian article reports that Prime Minister Olmert, a renowned football fan, announced last week that he was not one of the 1,700 as he too was waiting for the price to drop.

Charlton has made itself a whole lot of enemies - and threatening to send inspectors around to pubs, the most natural environment to watch a game, has only worsened matters for them. The World Cup, along with the Olympics and certain other sporting events should be free to watch - in other countries there is legislation to guarantee that certain sports events should be available to everyone. Any broadcaster with the rights to the World Cup will make a fortune in advertising and all the peripherals that go along with the contest.

Charlton should acknowledge the fact that they have been greedy and have underestimated the Israeli public. Make it free for all Pini!

Gilly

A new posting

2006-05-29T23:07:00.000+03:00

It's been a while - far too long in fact since I last sat down in front of the computer and shared my thoughts. It's partly due to laziness and partly due to working pretty hard - I'm rarely home before 7 these days - may not seem so bad but I've been used to 8 - 4 for the last 6 years. I'm amazed at how many people keep coming back - thank you for your support. Mainly however my silence has been due to deciding how to share our big news.

For the last 8 months or so, I've undergone interviews (with and without Mrs G) psychometric testing, selection work shops, and session after session, week by week of a pre-course.

The upshot of it all however has been worth it - in August, Mrs G and I will, all things being equal, be going on Shlichut for 2 - 3 years. It couldn't have come at a better time - things haven't been so great at work for me, Mrs G is finishing up her degree and the pitter patter of little Gs has not been heard yet (although I suspect that my mother in law won't let us back in the country without at least one addition!)

The feelings have been mixed however; we're at a good place in life with lots of friends around including G Junior and his Mrs G who made Aliyah not long ago. We are active in our shul and Mrs G has been beating back job offers for next year - in short however, there is never going to be a perfect time to take up an overseas posting and this is about as close to it as we can get.

I've just come back from meeting with the person who I'll be taking over from and liked what I saw in terms of the city and community and the work that he's done - now it will be up to me to build on it - I have certain advantages which he lacked - particularly being able to speak a mother tongue English - the BBC accent is a bonus when dealing with Americans - it sounds so correct.

I wouldn't want to leave Israel for any other reason than Shlichut - I see it as a mission and hopefully I'll succeed in the targets that I'm setting myself. We'll both have family close by, including the Grandmothers that I inherited when we got married - it will be a great chance to get to know them whilst experiencing a whole new lifestyle.

So that's our news - and now that I've spoken, regular blogging can resume.

Gilly

Coming home

2006-04-16T08:22:00.000+03:00

I have just spent 2 1/2 weeks away from home doing my annual stint of Miluim (reserve duty) - returning Erev Chag with just the final arrangements to be made in terms of cleaning and kashering - kudos to the wonderful Mrs G who held the fort whilst I was away.

My Miluim was spent at a base called Yakir which is just to the West of Ariel and to the North and East of Rosh Ha'ayin. It's in the next sector over from Kedumim and we had just arrived when the pigua happened, once again a terrorist blowing himself up, murdering innocent people in the process.

In response to the attack, much of our time was spent on machsomim (roadblocks) a duty which I find particularly unpleasant, firstly as I feel like we're sitting ducks for any opportunist terrorist but secondly because the type of roadblocks which we were manning tended to be of the type where passing was not based on threat but on address; residents of Jenin and its surrounds could not pass at all; Tulkarem residents aged 15 - 30 were turned back; people were free to pass in one direction but not another or simply no passing in either direction even when it was clear for all to see that an innocent person was just trying to get home and by holding him up we just caused him to hate us. Very tough for a rational person to be told that common sense (and a good search of the vehicle) don't come into the equation at all.

Every time I go on Miluim, I'm exposed to a new part of the country and am reminded what a beautiful place we call home. Yakir and its neighbouring Yishuvim are set in hilly countryside which is currently in bloom - Olive trees coat the hillsides and the undergrowth is filled with flowers in all the colours of the rainbow - all is green and there is a feeling of renewal in the air. Yakir itself overlooks a nature reserve with a river bed running through it which is particularly picturesque (Karnei Shomron overlooks the same valley only from the North). We found out to our cost that it may be pretty, but climbing its steep gradients in Shachpodim (battle vests with heavy ceramic plates in the front and back) is certainly not to be recommended - the damn things may offer protection but they limit your movement and weigh you down.

Miluim is changing and this should be my last Miluim of this type other than in a state of emergency - I'll believe it when I see it quite frankly but won't be sorry if I can hang up my boots. We will still train and I'm pleased that I'll get to see Hanan, Eran, Chen, Sharon, Ran and all the other guys with whom I've shared these tough times with over the years. I'm proud to serve but won't mind if this is the end!

Chag Sameach,

Gilly

Islamic Catch 22

2006-03-24T00:06:00.000+02:00

If I were a member of a religion where you could be killed for daring to have a contrary belief, I, as a normal, rational human being wouldn't want to be a member of that religion - tough call huh?

I'm starting to think that certain people have a slightly different mentality where no real value is put on human life (unless it can be manipulated for PR purposes to achieve an aim)....

Gilly

Carnivores' paradise

2006-03-17T12:51:00.000+02:00

Like many carnivores, I tend to be quite territorial when it comes to my eating habits. Particularly when good food is plentiful and there are feeding grounds that I haven't tried close by, I'm fairly loathe to go further afield unless there is a special reason to do so.

Last night we had a triple celebration; one of my brother in laws has officially returned to civilian life after 3 years making the country safe for the rest of us; my second brother in law is being drafted on Sunday to a special forces unit, in effect, changing the guard with big brother. Lastly, my father in law has finally finished working a job that he really disliked - reason enough for a party en famille and to leave Jerusalem behind, heading for the fresh plains of Tel Aviv.

Papagaio is a Brazilian grill which works on an eat-as-much-as-you-can basis. Although I take after my Mother in virtually every respect, my ferocious appetite for meat is certainly inherited from my Dad z"l who would have really appreciated this place - it is an appetite which is shared by my in-laws so this particular style of eating was always going to be a winner.

With 3 branches around the country, we headed for the 3rd floor of the Azrieli mall and were greeted by a fairly industrial looking main space, meat sizzling on the grill as we came in. Having been seated in comfortable leather chairs (no part of the cow is spared), we were offered special Brazilian, fruit based cocktails, those of which we tried were pleasant with only a hint of alcohol. From then on, waiters circulated with meat on skewers, bones and plates, carving as much as we asked for at the tables.

In no particular order we feasted on wings, empanadas, drumsticks, spicy chorizo, beef ribs, sirloin (sinta), entrecote, liver (a real favourite), goose breast, hearts, kebabs and chicken breasts. It's possible that I've forgotten something but that's already 12 types of meat. For the record, we did everything justice and came back for seconds of pretty much the lot - it was all delicious, the steaks being served rare - medium rare which won great favour with the family for whom cooking the meat is almost an afterthought.

There were some salads on the table as well but I think that they were largely for decoration - certainly they didn't come in for any attention. We did enjoy a supremely chocolatey souffle for dessert - I was a little bit surprised that I managed to find room for it but it slid down well with an espresso.

For NIS 125 per head, you can literally sit there for hours enjoying more and more meat. Plasma TVs at strategic locations were showing Maccabi Tel Aviv's triumph over Real Madrid as we ate and one group of lads were sat opposite a TV with a never ending supply of meat and beer - heaven for any sports fan. A smallish private room makes this a great location for a stag bash or birthday party.

A really top notch place, great value for money - vegetarians steer well clear.

Money of vouchers at eluna.com

Shabbat shalom

Gilly

Purim Sameach

2006-03-15T01:56:00.000+02:00

Writing after a Purim party is not necessarily the greatest idea, but then tempting fate by dressing up as Julius Caesar on the Ides of March is also arguably not the smartest plan in the world. Jerusalem is alive and kicking tonight and every Anglo who's out and about seems to be at Moulan on the corner of Keren Hayesod and Jabotinsky. We headed there after a King and Queens themed party around the corner and it proved a good decision - good music, great atmosphere and plenty of friends bumping and grooving.

Despite my generally miserable disposition, Purim is one of my favourite Chagim as pretty much everyone gets into it - school children are running around the streets in costume, it's a great excuse for adults to let their hair down and the socially aware customs of sending food baskets to your friends and giving charity, together with booing Haman's name, are some of my favourite holiday minhagim.

Tomorrow we'll be hosting a Purim Seudah of around 15 people - don't have a clue where we're going to put them all but I'm certain that Mrs G. has catered in sufficient quantities - it would be great if we had today's weather so that we could eat outside but the forecast is for a colder spell so not counting on it and we may have to do a buffet option - a good crowd of people coming and with plenty of liquid lubrication I'm sure that the cramming won't be a problem.

Wishing you all a Chag Sameach,

Gilly

Taxing times

2006-03-03T09:00:00.000+02:00

After my office announced, extremely apologetically, that they were going to have to cut down my hours to part time, I quickly did something that a lot of Israelis do; went out and got a second job. I've been extremely lucky with jobs in Israel; since I left the army I've worked in 3 places and I've never been unemployed for more than a week - and even that week was out of choice. The job where I've been working for 6 1/2 years saw out the bad days of the intifada and the fact that it wasn't cut out completely, together with the fact that I enjoy the job meant that for me it made sense to look for something else part time, rather than full time.

Having had 1 full time job for such a long time, I hadn't had to make a trip to the Income Tax Authority to organise coordination of taxes "Te'um Mas". Not doing this means that your second job is taxed at the highest tax rate - currently 49% + National Insurance and Health taxes - Ouch!

The very name Income Tax Authority - Mas Hachnasa provokes images of a dungeon style environment with sadistical devils slithering around, taking their pound of flesh. The reality couldn't have been farther apart however.

About 5 years ago, Customs and the Income Tax authority moved in together to a modern block in Givat Shaul (there's also an office on Yafo). I arrived as the doors opened, negotiated the metal detector and went to grab a number. People sat quietly filling in forms as the counter beeped the numbers down. The clerks sit in a separate section of the room, with a dividing wall which no-one crosses - no "I just want to ask a question" - a queue in a very quiet, patient, un-Israeli style. It helps that the seats are comfortable and the office is clean and modern.

I was with the clerk for no more than 3 minutes - a very comfortable process but it appears that I wasn't the only one with concerns - on the shelf, by the forms was a little pile of Tehillim books!

Gilly

Fight the power

2006-02-26T18:51:00.000+02:00

Over the years, I've participated in some pretty random Jerusalem Shabbat meals - the weirdness of some of the human beings that make it to this part of the world will, I hope, never cease to amaze me. That having being said, I'll put up the crowd that we hosted a few weeks back against any random group of people.

Mrs G and I are a pretty normal, young frum couple - probably Dati-lite is a good phrase to describe us; she doesn't cover her hair and wears trousers; I pic 'n' mix when it comes to certain aspects of the religion - you get the picture. 2 of our guests that meal were Yeshiva boys - one with a black hat; the other knitted kippa. A further four of our guests were University Students who arrived by cab and switched their cellphones off as they came in, boys with heads, girls cleavage uncovered. Already an interesting mix. The piece de resistance however were Joel and Shoshana Covington with their delightful daughters. Joel (otherwise known as Rebel Sun) and Shoshana are black Americans, living and studying in Israel, currently under threat of being expelled from Israel because the Interior Ministry won't give them a visa so that they can progress with the conversion process. Shoshana is studying towards an M.A. at Hebrew U and isa friend of Mrs G.

The meal was marked by some exceptional conversation - our yeshiva boys, University students and the two of us have a fairly typical middle class Jewish background and so Joel, from the rough streets of Baltimore was a little different to our usual social group. He and Shoshana struck me as being tremendously passionate, dignified people, warm parents and lots of fun to be around. Watching a Black hatted yeshiva student engage in a hip hop handshake with Joel, hair worn in braids, was a sight to behold and a story which I'm sure will get much mileage.

Last night, Mrs G and I went to Hama'abada on Derech Hebron to hear Joel's band Coolooloosh. The gig was to raise money for their fight with the Interior Ministry. They were joined on stage by well know figures in the local hip-hop scene - Sha'anan Street from Dag Nahash, Kwami De La Fox, Segol 59 and Kashi who together with MC Carolina appear in "Fight Rebel Sun" a song in support of the Covingtons' struggle. We missed the opener but the rest of the evening was killer - I used to be very into rap music and still recognise good stuff when I hear it and Coolooloosh have a funky seventies influence going on which was just great to dance to. I would certainly go along to show support but when the music is that good it's a great pleasure and the big crowd clearly also appreciated what was going down.

We gave Shoshana a lift home after we'd said hi to Joel. It's very difficult to understand their current plight. The Law of Return allows for large numbers of non-Jews to make Aliyah and although I see the problematic nature of the law, I totally understand and identify with the reasons behind it. The Interior Minister is empowered to grant citizenship to people who don't meet the criteria of the Law of Return - typically sportsmen or other people who have given to the country. Again, I can see a value in that. But what I can't understand is why when a family of bright, productive and creative people who would be a credit to any society, express their desire to undergo the difficult process of conversion to Judaism, they run into a wall with the Interior Ministry?

It's an issue which comes up time and again - MK HaRav Michael Melchior commented that Ruth the Moabite (as in Megillat Ruth) would have no chance against the clerks of the Interior Ministry who seem to delight in the power that they can potentially wield. Why should the decision as to who can convert be placed in their hands? Effectively that is what is being done here - to convert you need a visa - to get a visa you need Misrad Hapnim.

I don't suppose that much can be done before the elections - our politicians are concerned with retaining their seats and cutting deals, not with the people. Maybe once the dust has settled, someone will get up and force change in the most archaic of Government offices. Until then you can sign a petition here.

Fight Rebel Sun, fight.

Gilly

Having a ball

2006-02-04T19:50:00.000+02:00

A big congratulations to organisers of Thursday's Jerusalem Winter Ball. An excellent turn out of smartly dressed singles and couples meant that a few shekels went in the direction of a worthy charity.

Although not everyone enjoyed themselves, some of Israel's newest, most fabulous and most eligible bloggers seemed to be taking advantage of the bar, good food and easy going atmosphere.

Kol Hakavod to Eli and the committee - bigger and better next year!

Shavua Tov

Gilly

Food and the state of the nation

2006-01-24T20:48:00.000+02:00

I wasn't sure what I fancied eating as I killed time before heading to Mrs. G's performance this evening. Already in town, I didn't really feel like Joy Express and Burger's Bar had a ridiculous queue. I don't think there's anywhere around Ben Yehuda that I would class as a really good falafel and I couldn't be bothered to trek over to Agrippas for a decent Meurav Yerushalmi (whether Sami, Sima or Steakiyat Chatzot). If I want good grilled meat, I have it on my doorstep in the Talpiot Industrial Zone.

Feeling wholly uninspired, I wandered up Ben Yehuda in the direction of King George. Something caused me to take a right onto Rechov Hahistadrut and there I was greeted by a distressing sight; the empty shell on the left of the picture is all that remains of a Jerusalem institution where Kings and Prime Ministers dined and a reservation for Henry Kissinger was once famously turned down.

I had the pleasure of partaking in Fink's famous ambience (and goulash soup) a couple of years ago when it bowed to demographic pressure and obtained a Kashrut certificate. It symbolised a very European past; cloth napkins, waiter in tie and jacket, a bar where ordering a Buttery Nipple or an Orgasm would have had you thrown into the street and a menu made up Eastern European delicacies. It was a special (but very expensive) dining experience which perhaps didn't fit the Israel of the new millenium. Finks shut it's doors last year and speculation was rife as to whether it would reopen - the picture reveals that it will not.

On the right side of the picture, I found exactly what I had been looking for in another Jerusalem instituion; if Fink's was staid and complex European elegance, Pinati is frenetic, simple Jerusalemite fare. It offers a simple menu, the company of strangers, cheap prices and a warm seat policy. As I entered, a table of 6 was in the process of leaving; within 30 seconds plates were cleared, a cloth had been passed over and I was seated perusing the menu. 20 seconds later I had ordered Hummus ful - (Hummus with a cooked mix of chickpeas and brown beans) - 5 seconds later I had 2 pittot and plate of pickles thrust under my nose and before a further 10 seconds had passed my plate of Hummus was in front of me.

As I tucked in, a further solitary diner was seated beside me - his fish in spicy tomato sauce with rice appeared in front of him in similar short order; an elegantly dressed lady sat on the other side of the table and ordered the same as I was having. Being seated with complete strangers, hearing the waiter bellow another unintelligible order to the kitchen and being shooed on once your plate is empty are all part of the charm of the place.

The food is good, wholesome and filling, the welcome warm although somewhat abrupt and I get the impression that the number of repeat customers is high - at NIS 16 for a filling meal I can see myself being added to their number.

It is easy to see these two eateries as emblematic of a change that is going on across the world - we no longer have the time to sit down and contemplate our food, to engage in conversation over fine wine and to pay for the pleasure of good service; instead we have adopted a culture where everything must be immediate and where our neighbour is a stranger - no time for the other.

This is to oversimplify matters however; Fink's was a fish out of water, a curiosity who's time was (sadly) passed, emblematic of a bygone era. Pinati is a microcosm of Israel - everyone as one family - poking their noses in you might say - wholesome, cheap and cheerful - but a mouthful to enjoy!

Gilly

The 2nd Jerusalem Winter Ball

2006-01-20T11:41:00.000+02:00

I was unfortunate enough to miss last year's Winter Ball by being on Miluim. This year I will be making up for it - a formal dinner and dance which I'm sure will be a place to see and be seen and close enough that I'll be able to stumble home afterwards!

Most importantly - it's all for a good cause - proceeds from last year's event paid for a new incubator at Hadassah; this year the money will be going to another wonderful charity; Shachen Tov - The Good Neighbour Association.

Look forward to seeing you there!

Gilly

What the Polls say

2006-01-19T23:06:00.000+02:00

A Ha'aretz - Channel 10 poll, suggests that Kadima is leaking voters in the direction of the Likud and Labour who are also gaining at the expense of Shinui. Kadima is apparently down from 44 to 41, whilst Labour and Likud climbing from 16 to 19 and 13 to 17 respectively.

Anyone with half a brain can see that the poll doesn't really tell you anything new - the sample size of 625 people is not really big enough to reveal that much and with a margin of error of 3 - 4%, a few seats lost can easily be regained in another poll - no need for Olmert to be calling emergency meetings just yet.

What is far more interesting however is that assuming Kadima wins 41 seats or 44 and Labour / Likud each take between 13 or 19 seats, even very basic arithmetic shows that if Kadima makes a coalition with one or other of these two parties, that will mean somewhere in the region of 55 - 60 seats with a possibility of being able to form a majority coalition involving just 2 political parties.

After each election, the electorate is subjected to some fairly disgusting political horse trading; Shinui refusing to sit with the religious parties; Shas and Yisrael Ba'Aliyah fighting over the Interior Ministry; in short the sort of stupid turf wars which could conceivably be largely avoided if we were to have 2 big parties controlling things with perhaps one smaller party to make up the numbers. Small parties would be unable to hold the Government to ransom with the threat of leaving the coalition if some demand were not met - quite simply, we could find ourself with a greater degree of stability than we have seen for a long time.

Assuming that this will end up as the rough distribution of seats among the 3 big parties, the teaser is - where will Kadima find its main ally? With an increasingly hawkish Likud, which will torpedo any moves towards territorial concession or with a Labour party concentrating on peddling economic policies that went out with the Berlin Wall? Could we conceivably see a Government headed by Ehud Olmert, bringing in alternately the Dovish Labour party when pushing in the Diplomatic / Peace / Security arena and the capitalist, Bibi-led Likud when taking the battle to the Unions?

The other possibility of course, is that Kadima will not be able to tempt the other big parties with Volvos and portfolios and we'll be back to the nastiness of negotiating a coalition agreement with a medley of small parties, each eager to stake it's claim to a certain piece of turf - politics of the worst kind.

The test that lies in front of Olmert is not winning the election, but proving capable of constucting a coalition with which to lead the country afterwards. The conditions that present themselves provide intriguing possibilities - I'm just hoping that fragile political egos don't prevent the opportunity from being grasped.

Shabbat Shalom,

Gilly

The Glen factor

2006-01-18T23:24:00.000+02:00

Weddings can be sub-divided into 4 sections; the very best are when you are there because you are friends of both the Chatan and Kallah; this is very closely followed by those where you are friends of the Chatan (with whom you'll be doing most of your dancing). Next is the wedding when you are there on the Kallah's side, not really knowing the groom and his friends and feeling a bit awkward about shuffling around in a circle with your hand on the sweaty shirt of the stranger in front. Lastly comes the wedding when you are there because your partner is a friend of one side or the other and you know no-one in the entire place.

The last group in particular can be made very much easier if the booze is good and I was therefore rather happy this evening to encounter an old friend of mine at the bar as we entered. The Cragganmore and I have a long acquaintance and I was very pleased to renew it. Looking further afield, I was overjoyed to spot a trio of old buddies usually known collectively as "the Glens" - Glenfiddich, Glenlivet and Glenmorangie - between them, they'll make any event a simcha! Even if you know no-one - anyone can end up being your best friend! The car keys were duly passed to Mrs G. who can dance all night in a wedding where she knows no-one without a drop of alcohol.

Morning after postscript: Ouch! Don't do that again when you have to be up before 7:00!!

Gilly

Extending a welcome

2006-01-18T17:29:00.000+02:00

I'd just like to welcome Calev; he who wrote the article which prompted the response which prompted the blog entry, to both Israel and the blogosphere - mazal tov on your Aliyah Calev and looking forward to some amusement if early entries are anything to go by.

Gilly

Laughing all the way to the Souk

2006-01-16T17:54:00.000+02:00

A friend / reader recently left me a message on my ansaphone the other night asking me to recommend a decent meat restaraunt. I was suitably flattered that anyone should think of me as an authority but I reckon that I have written quite a few entries on places around Jerusalem where one can be well fed and watered, hence the request.

Far be it from me to disappoint or keep you waiting for the results of last night's foray therefore. My brother and sister-in-law, now safely esconced in their own home, but who spent their first two weeks as Olim in our spare room, had offered to take us out for a meal as soon as Mrs G had a spare evening.

I had been wanting to try out Tzachko for a while. Hidden away in the Iraqi souk in Machane Yehuda, it is owned by the same people who run "Hakol Le'Ofeh vegam Cafe" - "Everything for the baker and also coffee" where you can buy any product which you could possibly want to bake with and have a decent cup of coffee whilst watching the world rushing by. To survive so far off the beaten trail, you have to be able to offer up something special and it certainly proved to be the case with a couple of minor gripes.

Tzachko does not look like a gourmet place - it's small, with an enclosed outdoor section and a small indoors. It's not particularly grand looking and certainly can't offer the atmosphere of Lugar or Limonim; the heating could have done with a little work and the waitresses were not dressed as elegantly as you might expect. The menu more than makes up for these details though.

Looking down an extensive and imaginative list of starters, we opted to order 2 dishes between the 4 of us and to save our appetites for the main fare. As we made our choices we munched on the simply superb olives and fresh bread with coriander which were brought to our table within seconds of our taking our seats. We opted for an order of spicy caramelized wings and tapas served on a lafa. The wings were plentiful and delicious with an excellent sauce and the tapas proved to be a series of spreads; olive, sun-dried tomato, pickled lemon, pesto and a cherry tomato jam - all excellent with the pickled lemon proving particularly special. The lafa (flat bread) on which they were served was hot from the oven.

For the main event, the specials menu was nearly as long as the regular one and we really felt spoiled for choice. Mrs G and my brother both opted for the Sirloin with smoked goose breast, served with baked garlic, pearl onions and potatoes. It was a dish that looked as perfect as it tasted, served medium rare. My sister-in-law also opted for Sirloin, served with mashed potatoes in a wine and fruit based sauce. The meat was perfectly pink on the inside and I would have happily mopped up the sauce. My order of fillet of beef wrapped in leeks was just as I like it - still mooing and incredibly tender. We washed all this down with a Golan Cabernet Sauvignon which went well with the beef.

We still had room for dessert, my brother and I opting for sinfully rich chocolate souffles whilst the girls shared a chocolate platter; mini souffle, a choice of pralines and chocolate dipped strawberries.

Our bill was relatively steep but the prices of the various courses range quite widely to the extent that you can pay between NIS 55 and NIS 160 for a main dish. Conceivably, this is a restaraunt that you could come to for both a reasonably priced meal (starters around NIS 30, mains NIS 60) or for a special treat when the family is visiting (starters NIS 50 - 60, mains NIS 90 - 120). What is for certain is that we will return to try some more of the extensive menu (which we're told changes according to the best produce the Souk can offer) - we will probably wait until it's a little warmer however.

Tzachko, Iraqi Souk, Machane Yehuda. Tel: 02 623 4916.

Personal example

2006-01-12T20:05:00.000+02:00

If you take the view that you can judge a person by his friends and / or that the apple doesn't fall far from the tree, then having your daughter's wedding ended by police breaking up a fight is hardly a ringing endorsement for one of our Chief Rabbis.

This is the self same daughter whose previous boyfriend was kidnapped by the Rabbi's son, with the Rebbetzin's knowledge and beaten up, in the Rabbi's own house whilst the Rabbi himself slept.

This time round, it seems that a guest attacked a waiter having been provoked by the fact that said waiter was "an Arab".

If these are the type of people who our religious leaders choose to make friends with and this is the kind of example which is being set by our Chief Rabbis (Rabbi Amar's Ashkenazi counterpart Rabbi Metzger has a litany of complaints against him including, most recently, bribery), is it really any great wonder that religion is a turn off for many?

In days gone by, our leaders resigned over an illegal bank account. If Rabbi had any ideas of decency he would have resigned. The message that he has sent is not one that I recognise as being compatible with being a good Jew.

Gilly

Yahrzeit

2006-01-11T22:11:00.000+02:00

My Aunt told me a story when we were sitting shiva for Dad - they had been talking about what the worse thing that could befall them could possibly be. She said something predictable about the bank losing all their money. His response was "that my sons would not know how to say Kaddish for me".

I have always found this a fascinating reply; Dad wasn't a particularly religious man in the traditional sense of the word; the last Shabbat I spent with him; his last Shabbat, he turned down an Aliyah to the Torah at my cousin's Bar Mitzva on the grounds that he wasn't worthy of it - he asked that it be given to me instead. He was very worthy of it - aware of where he had come from and making sure that we had an appropriate education. I had the last laugh that Shabbat - we gave him an Aliyah at Mincha instead - no arguments that time!

Today, nine years after he passed away, my brother and I said Kaddish for Dad at two different Minyanim in Jerusalem where we have made our homes. I'm sure that he is looking down with pride at the lives we have built and our various accomplishments (in between fleecing various angels at poker).

If you're reading today, on this cold, wet evening, please pour yourself a Scotch (Glenlivet if you have - his favourite) and raise a glass.

Gilly

4........

2006-01-05T22:55:00.000+02:00

I've been tagged by Noa - guess I'm a spoil sport if I don't turn up the goods - so here goes:

Four jobs I've had in my life:
1. Stacked shelves at a Supermarket working with a real life Sharon and Tracy
2. Night manager at Bonkers Bagels way back in the day - Kikar Zion branch
3. Invigilator for Bagrut exams - kids have plenty of inventive (and some very obvious) ways to try to cheat
4. Bicycle repair man - very briefly, on kibbutz and definitely not surrounded by Supermen but I still fix my own punctures.

Four movies I could watch over and over:
1. Pulp Fiction (not could - have done so)
2. Goodfellas
3. Lock Stock
4. Trainspotting

Four places I've lived:
1. Jerusalem
2. London
3. Manchester
4. Tel Aviv

Four TV Shows I Love to watch:
1. Premier / Champions League Football
2. Top Gear
3. Ready, Steady, Cook (and most other cookery programs)
4. Pimp My Ride

Four places I've been on vacation:
1. Gibraltar
2. Antalya (Turkey)
3. New York
4. Holland

Four websites I visit daily:
1. http://football.guardian.co.uk/
2. www.jpost.com
3. www.theonion.com (Not every day - frequently)
4. gmail.com

Four of my favorite foods:
1. Steak - medium rare
2. Buffalo Wings
3. Bendicks Bittermints - 95% cocoa solids chocolate with bittermint fondant filling
4. Can Single Malt Whisky be considered a food?

Four places I'd rather be:
1. There is nowhere in the world that I'd rather be than Jerusalem - after Jerusalem would come:
2. Mum's place
3. Anfield
4. An Island paradise somewhere with Mrs G

Four books I'll read over and over again:
1. High Fidelity
2. Catcher in the Rye
3. Trainspotting - open it to a random page and start reading
4. The Torah - in weeky installments at a synagogue near you....

I don't know if the law requires me to pass this on and therefore I'm not going to unless someone tells me that I will rot in hell if I don't...

Does anyone have a paddle?

2006-01-05T17:37:00.000+02:00

Like most of the nation, I've been following the PM's condition with extreme concern. My colleague summed it up well - "he's like a father - you don't always like the decisions he makes, but you know he's got your best interests in mind". Yair Lapid writes an excellent piece on Ynet - well worth reading.

Barring a miracle (and let's face it - we're in the right part of the world for one), we will be choosing a new Prime Minister on March 28th and no-one can be overly happy with the parade of candidates to hand; Amir Peretz who has contrived to put Labour almost into freefall since winning their leadership and is a big fan of Soviet economic models; Netanyahu who was unceremoniously booted out by the electorate after pissing off pretty much everyone in '99 or (seemingly) Ehud Olmert who I see as being a very politic politician - all fineigling and not too much substance. In that Kadima will have to chose a new leader, of the obvious front runners I think I'd go with Livni rather than Mofaz or Shitreet.

Watching the foreign news channels, the positive effect that Sharon and the withdrawal from Gaza has had on Israel's standing is very clear to me; from being portrayed as a warmongering butcher of Beirut character when he assumed the top job, Sky News has been positively fawning over him today, speaking of him as a Statesmen who will be incredibly difficult to place; asking who will be able to fill the sizeable space which we assume he will be leaving behind. He has won the world over by proving that actions speak louder than words - he was the one with the balls to get up and say that we should no longer be in the Gaza Strip and then to take action that was incredibly unpopular with his traditional voters and which only made him more popular in the country as a whole.

Sharon has been here since the very beginning; as a maverick commander in the military and subsequently a pivotal political figure over the last 30 years. He is part of a breed that is fast disapppearing - like him or not, he has shown leadership when the country really needed it. There doesn't appear to be an obvious successor but whoever takes the job on after March 28th can learn a lot from the way in which Sharon has set about things.

Gilly

If JDate doesn't work.....

2005-12-29T16:57:00.000+02:00

According to Ynet, a British woman has married a dolphin in Eilat. The article, singularly the most bizarre that I remember reading outside of the Sunday Sport (no link - my Mother in Law reads this), brilliantly employs the English art of understatement in describing the wedding as "unusual".

So how on earth did they get that one by the Rabbanut? I suppose the fact that they clearly didn't cohabit before their nuptials must have been looked on approvingly but the logistics of a ceremony which presumably involved the bride swimming around the groom 7 times and breaking a glass with a flipper (ouch!), presided over by a Rav in a wetsuit (waterproof tallit anyone?) makes the mind boggle.

Unless I've putting too much into gender stereotypes, the fact that the dolphin - the groom remember, is called Cindy throws another spanner in the works and raises the possibility that the groom may also be a bride and that this coud be a lesbian-trans-species wedding.

I wonder how they announced that in the JC's "hatch, match and dispatch"?

Makes the wedding of a fellow blogger tonight seem ridiculously humdrum (and I know for sure that it won't be) -what planet are these people on?!

Gilly

My cup runneth over.....

2005-12-26T08:37:00.000+02:00

I found the incredible negativity of this article in yesterday's online Jpost and today's print version a real downer. I can't help but feel that Noga Martin's response to "Why I am making Aliya" by Calev Bender, a British almost-Oleh (and former Bnei Akiva Chanich of mine), totally misses the point.

The gripes presented; bank opening hours, being ignored by clerks, people shouting, dog shit on the pavement etc, suggest to me that this is one oldish immigrant for whom America is being seen very much through warped rose coloured glasses. Yes this country is far from perfect, but if you think that its far worse than the rest of the world then you need a severe reality check. Yes this country has crime - and other places don't? Yes sometimes the waiter gets your order wrong - but does this happen every time - and does it not also happen occasionally in London, New York and Paris? Come on lady - get real.

"Insanely overpriced appliances" - last time I looked, the costs had dropped drastically and were very comparable to pretty much what I'd pay in the UK - if not cheaper - maybe things cost less in the consumer paradise that is the USA but don't get confused into thinking that the USA is the same as everywhere else in the world - it's like bemoaning the fact that petrol is expensive here - well it might be - but no more expensive than anywhere else in the world - apart from the States where an irresponsible energy / environmental policy keeps the prices down.

If you were living in the States by the way, you'd be paying at least $10,000 per year per child for a Jewish education - so where does that leave your fat wages? Forget I asked - as a secular humanist you probably wouldn't bother, just leaving your kids to marry out by the next generation like your friend with the Druse boyfriend / husband - who clearly has very different ideas to myself about what Aliyah and being Jewish is all about.

I have no clue what on earth could have possessed a non-observant secular humanist who never attended Hebrew school or had a bat mitzva, to pick up and move to Israel at age 19 - but if you think that you represent the majority of Olim then you clearly haven't checked the demographics.

The vast majority of Olim are well connected to their roots and come here out of a love for the country, have done their research and have a pretty good idea of where it is that they are coming to. They are choosing to live in a country where they are surrounded by Jews; where they can wear outwould symbols of their religion without fear; where the Supermarkets stock kosher meat and the policeman wishes you "Chag Sameach" whilst he's handing over your speeding ticket.

It's tough - many don't make it but the number of Olim from the US, Canada, Britain, Australia, France and many other strong Western democracies, has been steadily rising and recent polls suggest that a very significant percentage are happy with the decision that they have made.

So stop griping about the small shit, your glass may be half empty but no need to put the rest of us on a downer - you've clearly found enough reason to stay here for 11 1/2 years so cut the negative crap and get some perspective.

Gilly

Pre-Aliyah nerves

2005-12-20T16:37:00.000+02:00

As I sit down to write, my brother and sister-in-law are waiting to board their plane at Heathrow Airport. My brother will have visited World of Whiskies and will have a decent Single Malt or two in his flight bag, my sister-in-law will probably have perfume and trashy magazines for the flight as they make their way to the gate.

This time it's a very different flight however - they have Aliyah visas stamped into their passports and their first stop upon arriving in the country will not be at the baggage carousel but at the office of the Ministry of Absorption.

As they come through to arrivals, we'll be there to meet them - I haven't seen them for over a year and I expect they'll be waterworks - especially from me and the girls - he's a bit more like my Dad who wasn't into men showing emotions.

I haven't lived in the same city as my bro since 1992 and suddenly I'm going to have him around the corner - a great flat, 7 minutes away by foot. I'm incredibly excited for them both to get to know Mrs G better - the few days when we were in England for our engagement and their visit for the wedding were nowhere near enough. They'll be close to several other really good friends which should make the adjustment far easier for them, but yet I'm really nervous.

My aliyah was a straightforward affair; coming straight out of University with little in the way of responsibility meant that I had it relatively easy. I left behind life as a University student for life as an Ulpan student. As a married couple, used to the UK lifestyle and London salaries, their adjustment is bound to be very different - and I think that they'll do well - they're both capable professional people who will find work and earn decent salaries (in Israeli terms), settle into a sun soaked lifestyle (although they're getting a mean welcome in terms of weather) and start producing little sabras.

But what if they don't? What if they fail their licensing exams (they're both medical professionals) and can't earn a living? What of the potential frustrations to which that might lead? Will they find work which is appropriate to their skills and how will they deal with a drop in income? They will be far from their previous home and in particular, my sister in law won't have her family nearby. I've been building on their success leading to the rest of the family following on - but if they end up back in London then I've no chance of having Mum round the corner to babysit.

I'm almost certain that my fears lack foundation and that they'll settle in beautifully - they are confident, come with all the appropriate skills, a few quid saved in the bank, an established crowd of friends to welcome them and good senses of humour. There is no reason why they shouldn't be further examples of successful British Aliyah (which will reach almost 500 by the end of the year).

A new chapter awaits them - I'm excited to be there at the start....

Gilly

What if we threw a party and nobody came?

2005-12-19T16:54:00.000+02:00

What happens when a one man party loses its one man? The Prime Minister's dash to hospital last night had and continues to have the potential to change the political map overnight. Although it seems from today's reports that it's business as usual, the incident comes as a stark reminder, if any was needed that the PM is not a young man and, given the stress that he is under (both due to his job and his physique), his health is certainly not to be taken for granted.

What would happen if Sharon were to be incapable of continuing? We'd be left in a situation where his new party, built in his image, would be leaderless and rudderless - although the law has been changed, it will be Arik Sharon that people will have in mind at the next election when they cast their vote and not the Kadima list, thus effectively people are casting their vote for the PM and not for the party. Were he not there - would Kadima garner any worthwhile support?

The alternatives are pretty grim - his deputy within Kadima is Ehud Olmert who has weedled himself into a position of power - but doesn't seem to me to be Prime Ministerial material. With the outcome of the Likud leadership battle still uncertain but pointing to Bibi, the alternative from that direction is not earth shatteringly exciting and the less said about Amir Peretz's challenge and what it could mean for the country the better.

Given these possible candidates, my inclination is to pray for a Refuah Shelemah and Arichut Yamim for Arik (although I'm sure that Peres is waiting in the wings....)

Gilly

Catching up

2005-12-15T18:36:00.000+02:00

Having not posted for 10 days, I certainly owe a debt of thanks to those of you who are not only curious (or bored) enough to read my ramblings but also for continuously checking up (according to my sitemeter) to see if I've updated (if only you'd click on my adsense!!)

Quite frankly I've been a tad uninspired - the election will prove to be interesting as things heat up but other than Shaul Mofaz proving just how much of a political whore he is, there's not all that much of interest in that arena - Likud leadership? Pnina Rosenblum? I'll leave it to the more seasoned politicians.

Work wise there's a lot going on but I don't actually want to go into it too much - not good stuff unfortunately but I find it very frustrating to talk about so I won't - things have looked up towards the end of this week and I'll probably write something on that next week.

Far more exciting however is my brother and sister-in-laws' imminent arrival which I alluded to in my previous post (for those of you who remember that far back). Having not lived in the same city for 13 1/2 years, I picked up the keys tonight for the apartment that I've rented for them around the corner. I haven't seen my little bro since my own wedding 13 months ago and I'm looking forward to him and his lovely wife getting to know Mrs G. better.

Almost exciting is that he's arriving just in time for the wedding of a very old friend of ours (with whom I lived for 5 years before getting married). Even better that he's marrying another good friend of mine - I've organised what should be a fairly staid stag party and then we're off to the Shabbat Chatan tomorrow, wedding this time next week and 7 brachot the week after sandwiched with another couple of weddings (like a London bus....)

Thus, although things have been quiet, there's quite a lot coming up and thank G-d it's all good stuff so look forward to some shiny, happy postings!!

Gilly

Israeli landlords

2005-12-05T08:24:00.000+02:00

Landlords have a bad name the world over and in many cases it's very deserved. I count myself rather lucky in this respect; in Manchester Mr Gorton and Mr Oogamali were always very pleasant; after moving to Israel I only saw my first landlord when we signed the contract, Tzvi liked me so much that he asked my assistance in a translation and Motti, my last landlord was also my next door neighbour - available 24 hours a day if something went wrong.

Having purchased my own place last year, I had hoped that I'd never have to go flathunting again but my brother's imminent arrival put paid to that as I got out the flathunting list, subscribed to Ma'agar Meida and began making phone calls to likely looking places.

For those of you familiar with real estate listings, you will know that they are creative to say the least with inappropriate adjectives such as "modern", "beautiful" and "well laid out", accompanying non-existent 1/2 rooms. Rehavia extends to anything that is within five minutes walking distance of Aza St and Baka includes Mekor Hayim.

Having seen several unsuitable places, we finally encountered an ad that appeared to good to be true but apart from the poetic license of referring to Talpiot as Arnona, it seemed great; a quiet location, newly renovated, huge main room, decent sized bedrooms and 2 balconies in a lovely building at a price below the going rate. The lawyer seemed reasonable, agreeing to all the minor changes in the contract that we requested. We agreed to sign some time this week.

Yesterday morning I received a call from the landlord. He told me that he had another couple who were interested and were even prepard to offer more than the original price but "he felt morally obliged towards us as we had seen the place first but he wanted us to sign asap". I was amazed - certainly not what I'd expect from a prospective landlord. In England, there is a term called "gazumping" which means that having had an offer accepted, another person makes a higher offer and the deal which you thought that you had struck is cancelled.

We signed yesterday evening; the landlord and his lawyer (also his son in law) were perfectly charming - very solid types. I guess we got lucky - but in general I have had only positive experiences with landlords in Israel. So maybe I'll conclude that there are some bad landlords out there but being Israeli has nothing to do with it.

Gilly

Opening Hours

2005-11-30T20:41:00.000+02:00

Here's one to test you no matter how long you've been here; what shuts in Jerusalem specifically on a Monday afternoon?

Misrad Hapnim is not the culprit (though it stands guilty of many other things) - it may have recently shut on Wednesday mornings "to improve service" but it's actually open on Monday afternoons.

Misrad Haklita is shut all day Tuesday and doesn't tend to have too much going on any afternoon.

Banks are not aware that it is possible to work in the afternoon hours (although they are open Monday evenings in many cases).

....and Misrad Hachinuch is simply never open.

The answer is hairdressers. I called the guy to whom I usually go at around 12:30 on Monday, in dire need of assistance, only to be told that they were just heading off for the day. I figured that I'd pop into one of the other 4 or 5 places that I pass on my way home, only to find them all closed as well.

Naturally Friday is their really busy day as everyone prepares for Shabbat so the Hairdressers' Union (if there is such a thing) seems to have decided that the day off to compensate is Monday.

So now you know!

Gilly

Today in History

2005-11-29T22:41:00.000+02:00

Today, 58 years ago, the UN voted to partition mandatory Palestine into 2 States; a Jewish State and an Arab State. The Jews accepted whilst the Arabs declined, starting the war which was to become known as the War of Independence by the Israelis and "el Nakba" - the tragedy, by the Arabs.

58 years and far too many dead later, we're still moving towards 2 States. The Arabs are still declining.

Interestingly, although most important dates to the State are commemorated by their Hebrew date, in this case the foreign date stuck - hence Rechov Kaf Tet beNovember in Katamon (home to the PM's no.2 Mr Olmert).

.....and precisely 2 years ago Mrs G and I started dating....

More info (about the vote, not the first date!)

Gilly

Go outside

2005-11-28T11:19:00.000+02:00

Urgent - those of you sitting reading this behind a desk somewhere in Israel - go outside now and take advantage of the absolutely glorious weather!!!

Those of you reading this from freezing England and America - you're welcome to join us!

Gilly

More beer and meat.....

2005-11-27T16:27:00.000+02:00

Last night was the first time that I'd been in the centre of Jerusalem on a Saturday night for a while and I was pleasantly surprised to see just how busy things were. Coming down past the pubs of the Russian Compound we stopped off at the brand newSugar Hill, where Mrs G knows one of the owners. An intimate spot with an interior literally taken from the pages of Rolling Stone, it was quiet as we passed at 9:45 but heaving by midnight - the sort of place that you'd come back to every night to see a regular crowd in friendly surroundings.

Heading on down Heleni Hamalka, we reached Yafo, flanked by 2 coffee shops; the veteran Cafe Hillel and the NKOTB, The Coffee Bean. Both were doing brisk business with tables packed both inside and out, whilst more clientele waited to be seated. Across the road we went, down past "Crack Square", filled with Yeshiva students trying desperately to be black and unimpressed Sem girls.

We were headed towards the square at the bottom where we reached the Bell Wood Bar which we'd first encountered in its mobile version at the beer festival this summer. We were there for Rob's birthday and the table which he'd ordered was already packed. I grabbed a seat opposite the huge flat TV and contentedly checked out AC Milan beating Lazio. This will certainly be a hit come next summer when the nations of the world flock to Germany. Decked out with plenty of dark wood and close to a dozen beers on tap, the place tries really hard to be a British pub but doesn't quite make it despite the picture of Piccadily Circus complete with double decker buses on the wall. Perhaps Salt and Vinegar Crisps and an old man with his dog in the corner might be in order? In general however, this is a place for someone who appreciates draught beer and / or is able to afford to sample the serious collection of Scotch behind the bar. Service was slow but otherwise highly recommended. Apparently it's "kosher with no certificate coz it's open on Shabbat" - you can order a White Russian to go with your burger so draw your own conclusions.

Peckish after the beer we headed to another new attraction - Joy Express - the younger, faster offshoot of the Emek Refaim favourite, which has set up shop next to the aforementioned Coffee Bean. An imaginative menu of burgers, meat sandwiches, wraps, grill specials and enough types of wings to keep even Clare Rayner happy, means that this is a post-pub destination to rival Burgers Bar. Designed with a tunnel-like shape and tiled-wall look, with a little too much avocado green for my liking, it is reminiscent of a 1960s era London Underground station, to which the speed of service unfortunately also seemed to be paying homage, but better to wait a little longer for something delicious than the immediate tastelessness of the likes of Burger King.

A revealing Saturday night - town is looking in better shape than any time since the summer of 2000, new places keep opening and Jerusalem is a fun place to be again.

Gilly

My first Thanksgiving

2005-11-25T10:09:00.000+02:00

I sat down to a Thanksgiving meal last night for the first time - one of the definite perks of being married to an American. This wasn't a homely affair however - Mrs G works with American students and had organised a bash for 120 of them plus various VIPs, which went down absolutely fantastically and she's definitely flavour of the month with her bosses. Once again I have a reminder of just what a lucky guy I am

Thanksgiving is a festival which I can totally relate to - huge quantities of traditional foods to celebrate victory over some sort of oppression is a very familar theme for any Jew and here we're not required to spend hours in shul listening to a megilla, saying Hallel and Mussaf etc before we get down to the important thing!

The traditional turkey, accompanied by stuffing and sweet potatos and supplemented by wonderfully rare roast beef and various vergetable dishes certainly met with my approval and those of the students for whom the party was intended, most of whom presumably live on pasta and cans of tuna. They also appreciated the (fairly dire) wine and seeing many leaving with bottle shaped bulges on their persons at the end of the evening took me back a few years to my days as a student!

Entertainment was provided by Yisrael Campbell - a well known local Anglo comic who appears frequently at venues around Jerusalem - he had the crowd in fits with his well observed comedy which also has a serious side to it - highly worth seeing if you get the chance and I was really pleased to be able to have a good chat with him and his delightful wife - he's not just damned funny, he's also a real mensch. Go see his show!!!

I'm told that I missed out on one of the most important Thanksgiving traditions - picking the carcass and making turkey soup, sandwiches, salad etc.... Having married into a family of American meat lovers, I'll just have to look forward to doing that next year instead - think I'll give a miss to drinking watery American beer in front of American football though!

The idea of giving thanks is something that is so basic that sometimes we forget to do it. Often we lost track of the fact that we should be grateful when the glass is half full rather than bitching about it being half empty. In the army there is a concept of "Ein Toda BeTzava" - "there is no such thing as thank you in the army" - basically if someone does something it's because that's there job and you shouldn't thank someone for doing something that they are meant to be doing in any case. It's a concept that I hate and is thoroughly un-Jewish in its nature. The idea of Hakarat Hatov - of giving thanks is too often ignored. Take time out to think about all the good things in life, about people who have helped you - and give a little thanks.

Shabbat shalom,

Gilly

"Liverpool is Gilly"

2005-11-24T12:39:00.000+02:00

I was extremely flattered to read that when David Wiseman thinks about Liverpool, he associates them with me. As an occasional player in the Monday night game (sorry for not inviting you for a while), David has most frequently encountered me on the pitch, screaming and swearing and wearing one of my Liverpool shirts with "Gilly" and the number 7 emblazoned across the back.

It's my father's fault that I'm a Liverpool supporter - he was born within spitting distance of the Mersey whilst I'm a native Londoner. Although we're now even further afield, one day when I have kids I'll have them cheering for the Reds, with Anfield baby-gros and Ian Rush milk bottles. Growing up in the late '70s and the '80s when Liverpool dominated the football world, it only made sense that I'd toe the line - it's become a bit more difficult in the last decade but not everyone gets to win the Champions League.....

Football is truly an international language and a great leveller. My Monday night companions are from the UK, USA, Australia, South Africa, Argentina, Israel. They are Doctors, Venture Capitalists, Lawyers, Accountants, Students, IDTers, unemployed - it doesn't really matter where we're from - for 90 minutes our feet do the talking, with people from disparate backgrounds combining to play the beautiful game together. As an aside, once the pitch is paid for, we donate a certain amount of money to Tzedaka each month so others also benefit from our hobby.

And yes - I see where David is coming from - when I check the scores, I don't just stop at Liverpool but also have a look and see what's happened to QPR, Spurs, Arsenal and Celtic. Mrs Gilly knows to stay clear when Liverpool lose and that I'll be in a far better mood when the best team in the world have pocketed 3 points (and even more so when Man Utd and Chelsea crash and burn).

Shabbat Shalom,

Oh and by the way - welcome to a new entrant to the blog scene who I'm finding entertaining - Jeruguru.

Gilly

On yer bike......

2005-11-21T15:23:00.000+02:00

I'm in full agreement with the top Op-ed in today's Jpost - making biking safer in Israel is a smart move. As it seems that the sport is, in any case gaining in popularity, simple steps that would make it less dangerous seem to be basic common sense.

I have been using a bike to get around on for approximately 8 months. It is healthy, environmentally friendly and certainly a lot cheaper than driving or taking the bus. It is also frequently hair raising - not least when I see the number of people for whom preserving their styling is more important than the possibility that their brains might be dashed out. I was shocked to be asked recently by a fellow cyclist why I bothered with a helmet - as if it wasn't obvious. Making helmets mandatory would be a very smart step and wouldn't cost the Government a penny - though some would surely claim it to be a "bike tax" - if so then so be it.

Whilst the idea of having dedicated cycle lanes, touted by the piece is fine in principle, for them to work in practise they would have to have some sort of separator - otherwise they would be parked on, just like any other piece of spare roadway or pavement seems to be. Local Government could enrich its coffers by the simple act of enforcing parking laws properly, especially after 7 p.m. when anything goes. A cycling lane which required dodging cars would be more dangerous than the current situtation so unless built along the lines of Jerusalem's single pathetic effort, I don't see how they'd work properly although for the small cost I'd certainly applaud the idea.

Israel is a country that lends itself very well to cycling - Jerusalem to Tel Aviv is no great stretch of the imagination and the Kinneret bike ride is a lot of fun. A bike tiyul for the more committed could cover the length of the country in less than a week - many charities do just that. Improving the facilities to make this wonderful sport a lot safer would be a fraction of the budget spent on building roads for the gas guzzlers - surely it makes sense?

Gilly

Guest post - Misrad Hapnim US style

2005-11-20T15:09:00.000+02:00

When a good mate of mine who has been based in the States since the summer mentioned that he can't work until January, mindful of how much we all bitch about Misrad Hapnim, I asked him to write a few lines about his experience with American bureaucracy.......

"The first thing I noticed whilst arranging a prolonged "Yerida Le'tzorech Aliya" in America was that I felt a longing for Misrad Hapnim. This is a very strange feeling indeed. The Misrad Hapnim in Jerusalem has greatly improved over the years. You can now book an appointment in advance (!) but when I made Aliya back in 1997 things were a bit different. Also, I was in Ashkelon. The Misrad Hapnim there was packed with Russians and of the ten clerks behind the desks, only one spoke English.

You get the picture. Even that was a picture of friendliness compared with the cold embrace of America. Israel is a warm, welcoming, frustrating but lovable bureaucracy. I have yet to speak to a human being in America. The websites are incommensurable. The automated voice machine directs you only to another set of option menus. The postal service does work, but again...there is no human at the end of the line.

I write this so that Olim should be grateful for what there is. I miss it like hell. There is no comparison between dealing with someone who is happy you have moved to Israel even if it makes work for them and between dealing with the American Immigration Department who doesn't want you there, treat you like a terrorist suspect and wouldn't give a monkey's if you were deported on the spot. And the process takes forever.

Now, I remember making Aliya. I know that it didn't happen overnight. I know that Israel is commited to helping Olim (though, perhaps more resources would help, eh?), but America takes forever. I recently heard from a friend who married an American and moved from the UK to New York. It took a year before she could get the necessary permits to work. What is that all about?

But the process has been smooth so far. I don't really have a clear idea of what lies ahead. America is everything you would expect after a life of watching exported TV programs. Just as long as they don't demand I learn to start speaking like an American. That would be, like, y'know, really, like, y'know, really, well, yeah, eh...

Nu, maspik. Az, matai anu chozrim habaitah? Be'hekdem Ha'Efshari.Todah Rabbah Le Mar Gil Ben-Mori u'lehitraot bekarov."

....and we look forward to your speedy return too.

Gilly

Memories of Autumn

2005-11-19T17:54:00.000+02:00

Common wisdom suggests that there's no such thing as Autumn in Israel - we simply segue neatly from summer to winter - sun beating down one day, rain the next.

Whilst there's a certain truth to this, the accompanying pictures certainly bring back memories of the UK; leaves carefully raked into piles and leaves turning from green to more autumnal hues.

Jerusalem weather has been extremely contrary over the last week or so - looking out of my window as I write, I can't help but feel that we're in for a downpour and the annual rite of watching the Kinneret slowly refill.

Shavua Tov

What's cooking?

2005-11-16T22:41:00.000+02:00

Just as an update on my Eilat post when I mentioned that I'd be writing about our anniversary meal at some point this week - in the end we decided to stay home and cook rather than go out.

Seeing as Mrs G was working late, I took charge, heading for Shoshani's, one of Jerusalem's finest purveyors of meat, located on Emek Refaim which happily only involves a short detour on my way home. "How thick?" he asked me when I asked for two good steaks. I explained that we like our meat almost mooing and he cut appropriate slabs for me - perfect red meat mottled with fat, just waiting to be sizzled.

When it's not Barbecue weather, my Le Creuset grill pan is perfect for steaks and other meat which requires quick cooking without much fat. As my beloved walked in, I slapped the steaks on the hot pan and the smell of cooking meat filled the room. I quickly flipped them, turning them through 90 degrees to get a professional looking griddle pattern before turning them onto plates already daubed with mustard flecked, creamy mashed potato and decorated with strips of grilled peppers. As the piece de resistance, I added an onion gravy, flavoured with thyme, red wine and plenty of black pepper.

The steaks were perfect - just the right shade of pink in the middle and superbly washed down with a delicious bottle of red. Who needs a restaurant?

Gilly

And now a few words from the Missus.......

Not meaning to toot our own horns, but both the hubby and I know how to cook pretty well. When we decided on a romantic candle lit dinner for two at chateau Gilly, I knew that I would be in good hands, letting my husband take charge. I wasn't disappointed!

I'm with Peretz.....

2005-11-16T14:26:00.000+02:00

For once I'm not only in agreement with Amir Peretz, but also with Shinui, The National Union and the National Religious Party. March 7th is apparently the preferred date of all 4 for the next General Election.

Why do I care? Well, a General Election means a day off work and quite happily, March 7th is my birthday - not having to get up for work would be a rather wonderful present. A stinging defeat for Peretz's peculiar brand of socialism would be a bonus.

I found an interesting picture of the new look Labour benches (don't bother if you're not British...)

Gilly

The deep south

2005-11-13T22:26:00.000+02:00

Every once in a while, it's good to get away and this Thursday found Mrs. G and myself heading out of Jerusalem, hanging a right at the Dead Sea and going (pretty much) "Yashar, yashar, ad hasof" til we hit the bright lights of Israel's southerly city, Eilat.

The occasion was a special one; our first anniversary and we'd chosen to spend a few days away from it all - just the two of us with no mobile phones going off, no cooking for Shabbat, no need to stand on ceremony for friends and family; just a decent hotel (the Dan Panorama booked very efficiently through Zion Tours), a couple of decent books and plenty of good food, long walks and most importantly, sleep.

Eilat is a short jog over 300 kilometres from Jerusalem and despite the poor lighting and only one lane in each direction, there's no reason why the trip should take more than 3 1/2 hours if you obey the speed limit all the way. We arrived shortly after 7 p.m. and, having dumped off our stuff headed for the dining room (I'm taking my beloved out in Jerusalem for a decent meal too - you can read about that later in the week.....). 40 winks and a shower later and we were ready to go out on the town.

No visit to Eilat is complete without a visit to the Monkeys bar on the boardwalk - who could possibly resist the overpriced cocktails and past-their-prime rock bands mixed with an eclectic clientele? Seriously though - the Monkeys is such an Eilat spot that when a footy friend told me that he'd met his fiancee in Eilat, it wasn't even impressive that I guessed that their eyes first met across the dance floor their on a Saturday night.

Exhausted after too long a week, we didn't last long, heading back to the hotel in the cool night air. It was wonderful to see the boardwalk packed so late in the season and gratifying to note that we'd missed the school trips which fill the place with hormonal 17 year olds strutting their stuff.

We had my ultimate lazy weekend - getting up late, strolling down to breakfast, getting stuck into a couple of semi-decent novels, walks along the front in weather that allowed for t-shirt and shorts but didn't make you feel the need to jump in the shower afterwards - the perfect time of year to visit and lots of decent conversation. The stress just melted away.

All too soon, Saturday night rolled around and we were heading back to Jerusalem for a drink with our hilarious, never-lost-in-the-crowd mate Gils who is off to Australia for a couple of months. That was at Goldie - another new kosher bar in town which looks promising...

Shavua Tov,

Gilly

If at first you don't succeed......

2005-11-10T15:17:00.000+02:00

The title of this post seems to be Shimon Peres' mantra - "If at first you don't succeed, try and try and try and try and try and try and try and try (ad Nauseam) again. Will the man ever give up?

After losing countless elections, both for leadership of the Labour party and the country, he looked an absolute shoe in for the job of President when the only man that the Likud could put up against him was Moshe Katzav. Having someone snatched defeat from the jaws of victory he's now gone and done it again by losing the Labour leadership battle to Amir Peretz.

The dignified thing to have done would have been to retire several battles back - after losing the general election to Bibi or the party leadership to Rabin perhaps - can we hope that he might have finally got the message whilst he still retains a (very very very small) scrap of dignity? Or will he insist on continuing to fight (and lose) again?

Shabbat Shalom

Gilly

Is nowhere safe.....?

2005-11-09T22:37:00.000+02:00

Car set alight amidst violent protests on Mount Scopus, hotels bombed in Amman - sometimes it seems that the Middle East is another France just waiting to happen.....

Gilly

The perfume of Shabbes

2005-11-09T05:49:00.000+02:00

As the nights draw in and the weather turns cold, we have less time on our already frenetic Friday afternoons to prepare for Shabbat. The solution is a famous Jewish delicacy that's both quick to prepare and warming on a chilly day. I'm talking of course, about Cholent or Hamin or Adafina for those with a Sephardi background - the famous dish incorporating a combination of beef, beans, barley and potatoes, slowly simmered from some time on a Friday afternoon until Shabbat after shul.

Mrs G and I differ on the way in which to make cholent - she slathers it with such bizarre substances as ketchup and barbecue sauce whilst I prefer to add in date honey and red wine. We are both united in our dislike of beans as a base for the cholent and our home is less malodorous as a result. I like to add some eggs to hard boil in the pot - she is happy to go without. Both our versions are delicious - a large hunk of beef, lots of onion and garlic, regular and sweet potatoes, barley and kishke (a type of sausage) are layered together in our slow cooker with cooking liquids and left to work their magic for the best part of 24 hours.

Whether we use my recipe or Mrs G's, come Shabbat morning, an incredible, tempting aroma wafts through our home, screaming at us to dispense with any sort of civilised niceties, forget going to Shul and to get stuck in. This, together with chicken soup, is the perfume of the Shabbes bride. And herein lies the problem - 5:30 on a Shabbat morning finds me lying in bed, wide awake, being tantalised by the smell. My mouth waters, my stomach rumbles and I simply can't get back to sleep no matter how tired I know it will leave me feeling.

I find myself left with a very stark choice - do I forego the delights of cholent or run the risk of falling asleep during the Rabbi's sermon (usually this would be a no-brainer but my Rabbi is an exceptional speaker!) The only logical way out of it that I can see is to do our best to make sure that we're invited out for Shabbat lunch. Any takers?

Gilly